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Moumoujus

MELISSA OFFICINALIS LEAF WATER.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Water, derived from lemon balm, is a multi-functional ingredient prized for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties. It helps protect skin from oxidative stress, calms irritation, and can regulate sebum production, making it suitable for a variety of skin concerns.

Summary

skin conditioning antioxidant anti-inflammatory astringent soothing antimicrobial hydrating wound healing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates via several synergistic mechanisms. Its potent antioxidant activity stems from a rich content of phenolic compounds, particularly rosmarinic acid, which effectively scavenges free radicals, diminishes intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), and safeguards cellular integrity against oxidative damage. It also exhibits anti-inflammatory effects that soothe irritated skin. Furthermore, its antimicrobial and antifungal properties may benefit blemish-prone skin by mitigating inflammation and reducing harmful bacterial presence. For oily skin types, it acts as an astringent to refine pores and balance sebum levels, while also promoting skin healing and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.05–0.5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated the most significant reduction in blood vessel visibility (antiangiogenic effect) in an in ovo CAM assay, without observed vascular toxicity.
  2. 02 Showed a reduction in thin capillaries (antiangiogenic effect) in an in ovo CAM assay.
  3. 03 Exhibited superior antioxidant activity, registering an Antioxidant Activity (AOA) of 49.11% in aqueous extracts.
  4. 04 Topical application on SKH-1 mice resulted in enhanced skin hydration, reduced erythema, and decreased transepidermal water loss. In HaCaT cells under oxidative stress, rosmarinic acid from the extract reduced intracellular ROS, boosted cell viability, and offered protection against H2O2-induced damage.
  5. 05 Effectively scavenged DPPH radicals in a concentration-dependent manner.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

Generally deemed safe and non-toxic at concentrations up to 5%. However, higher concentrations may lead to irritation, particularly for sensitive skin, due to the presence of essential oil and fragrance components. Patch testing is advised. The FDA recognizes 'BALM LEAVES, EXTRACT (MELISSA OFFICINALIS L.)' as GRAS for specific food uses, but this does not equate to a cosmetic safety review by bodies like CIR or SCCS.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Water is a valuable multi-benefit ingredient offering antioxidant protection, soothing anti-inflammatory effects, and astringent properties suitable for a wide range of skin types and concerns.

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