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MEA-THIOLACTATE.

Questionable CAS 54266-38-5 / HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING

MEA-THIOLACTATE is a powerful reducing agent predominantly employed in cosmetic formulations to modify hair structure. It functions by disrupting the disulfide bonds within keratin, enabling alterations for processes such as hair removal, straightening, or perming.

Summary

Hair Waving Or Straightening Depilatory Reducing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a reducing agent, chemically breaking the disulfide bonds that stabilize keratin, the primary protein in hair. This action renders the hair fibers more pliable, facilitating their reshaping for processes like depilation, perming, or straightening.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 5–15.2%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and European Union Cosmetics Regulation have determined that MEA-THIOLACTATE is safe and effective for depilatory products at concentrations up to 5%, provided the formulation is non-irritating and maintains a pH between 7.0 and 12.7.
  2. 02 For hair waving and straightening products, the European Union Cosmetics Regulation permits concentrations of 8% for general use and up to 11% for professional use, with a pH range of 7.0 to 9.5. The CIR Expert Panel further supports safety for a broader range of hair products, including dyes, at concentrations up to 15.2% (expressed as Thioglycolic Acid), with strong recommendations to minimize skin contact.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

MEA-THIOLACTATE is not utilized for direct skin benefits typically associated with 'dusting' of active ingredients. Its potent reducing action is specific to modifying hair keratin, making it inappropriate for general skincare formulations not targeting hair removal or modification.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 7 – 12.7
0 7 14

Stability

MEA-THIOLACTATE is hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, which can impact its stability and handling. It is also susceptible to oxidation upon air exposure. While chemically stable at standard room temperature, superior stability has been observed when stored in glass containers compared to polyolefin bottles.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15.2%
Sensitization risk High

The CIR Expert Panel designates MEA-THIOLACTATE as safe with restrictions, primarily due to its potent chemical activity. It is approved for depilatory applications at concentrations up to 5% under strict conditions: formulations must be non-irritating and pH-controlled (7.0-12.7). For other hair products, concentrations up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid) are permitted, but professional users are advised to avoid skin contact and minimize consumer exposure. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) identifies Thioglycolic acid and its salts, including MEA-THIOLACTATE, as skin irritants, ocular irritants, and sensitizers, imposing significant use limitations. The use of thioglycolic acid derivatives in eyelash-waving products has been prohibited in the EU since July 11, 2013.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While MEA-THIOLACTATE is highly effective for specific hair modification applications like depilation, its documented high potential for skin irritation and sensitization necessitates extremely precise formulation and strict usage guidelines, rendering it unsuitable for general skincare applications.

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