Science
Mechanism of Action
MELs boost skin moisturization by modulating aquaporin-3 expression, particularly crucial after UVA irradiation damage, and by mimicking natural ceramides to improve water content and holding capacity. For barrier repair, they upregulate key proteins such as filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and transglutaminase-1 (TGM1). Its skin brightening capabilities stem from inhibiting the ERK/CREB/MiTF signaling pathway, which suppresses the gene expression of melanogenic enzymes like tyrosinase, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2, thereby reducing melanin synthesis.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5 wt%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated a significant increase in stratum corneum water content and a reduction in perspiration on human forearm skin, confirming a high moisturizing action by supporting the skin’s barrier function.
- 02 Exhibited a clear skin whitening effect in a human skin equivalent model, leading to brighter tissue coloration and a reduction in melanin content.
- 03 Protected against skin barrier damage in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells by upregulating mRNA genes and critical proteins, including filaggrin, loricrin, and transglutaminase-1.
- 04 Facilitated the recovery of damaged cells and increased cell viability from approximately 20% to 89% in cultured human skin models, paralleling the reparative and hydrating effects of ceramides, and enhanced skin water content and water-holding capacity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Mannosylerythritol lipids exhibit robust pH and thermal stability, maintaining their integrity across a wide range of temperatures, pH values, and salinity conditions.
Conflicts
- Sensitive to salt concentrations exceeding 100 mM.
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally described as non-toxic and environmentally compatible. In vitro studies indicated cytotoxicity to HaCaT cells at concentrations above 20 µg/mL, yet they demonstrate no cytotoxic activity below this threshold in various cell lines, including human melanocytes, fibroblasts, and keratinocytes. A 50% reduction in mouse fibroblast viability required a comparatively high concentration of 5 g/L of MELs after 48 hours.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
With robust clinical evidence supporting its efficacy in moisturization, skin barrier repair, and brightening, coupled with a favorable safety profile and broad stability, Mannosylerythritol Lipid is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient for advanced skincare formulations, particularly beneficial for dry and sensitive skin types.
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