Science
Mechanism of Action
This compound functions as a potent reducing agent, initiating a chemical process that disrupts the disulfide bonds integral to the keratin structure of hair fibers. This modification allows for the desired changes in hair shape, as seen in permanent waving or straightening, or facilitates the removal of hair in depilatory products by weakening its structural integrity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Magnesium Thioglycolate is a chemical active for hair modification, not typically used in 'skin-benefiting' concentrations that would be subject to cosmetic 'dusting' concerns.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
A 0.1 N solution of magnesium thioglycolate dihydrate registers a pH of approximately 6.5 at 25°C. Stability is crucial; it oxidizes upon exposure to air and is incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, strong bases, and active metals. European Union cosmetics regulations permit a pH range of 7 to 9.5 for hair waving/straightening products, and 7 to 12.7 for depilatory products.
Conflicts
- Air (leads to oxidation)
- Strong oxidizers
- Strong bases
- Active metals (e.g., sodium, potassium, calcium)
- Certain magnesium complexes with thioglycolic acid (due to low solubility and reactive pH)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Magnesium Thioglycolate safe for use in hair modifying products up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid) and in depilatories when non-irritating under recommended use conditions, at concentrations up to 5% (as Thioglycolic Acid) at pH 7-12.7 or 2% (as Thioglycolic Acid) at pH 7-9.5. Hairdressers are advised to minimize skin contact and consumer exposure. The SCCS also approves its use with restrictions detailed in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation, regarding purity, maximum concentration, and product categories. No direct FDA cosmetic status was found, with FDA communications primarily addressing dietary magnesium.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Magnesium Thioglycolate is a valuable ingredient for its highly effective, specialized role in chemical hair modification and removal, provided it is formulated and used within strict regulatory guidelines and concentration limits to ensure consumer safety.
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References
Sources