Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through a dual-action mechanism, targeting both melanin production and collagen degradation. For skin brightening, it inhibits melanin synthesis by downregulating key regulatory proteins, specifically microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1, TRP-2). Simultaneously, it addresses signs of aging by reducing the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), an enzyme that breaks down collagen, while actively promoting the synthesis of new soluble collagen. Its efficacy is attributed to a rich composition of polyphenolic compounds, including formononetin and genistein, which also confer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In B16F1 melanoma cells, α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis was significantly inhibited by 49%, accompanied by a 46% suppression of MITF expression. No cytotoxicity was observed at concentrations up to 75 µg/mL.
- 02 Demonstrated a 42% inhibition of α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis and 46% suppression of MITF expression in B16F1 melanoma cells. In CCD-986Sk cells, it reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression by 62% and increased total soluble collagen by 133%.
- 03 Achieved an 18% inhibition of melanin synthesis and a 25% suppression of MITF expression in B16F1 melanoma cells. In CCD-986Sk cells, it reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression by 51% and boosted total soluble collagen by 149%.
- 04 In CCD-986Sk cells, a 26% reduction in UVA-induced MMP-1 expression was observed, alongside a 124% increase in total soluble collagen.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No specific data suggests this ingredient is commonly 'dusted' or used at concentrations below its effective threshold in formulations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal pH range for stability is not explicitly detailed. However, its effectiveness across various extraction methodologies (e.g., methanolic, ethanolic) implies that its active components possess a versatile solubility profile, compatible with both polar and non-polar solvent systems.
Safety
Safety Profile
No formal safety assessments from regulatory bodies like CIR, SCCS, or FDA have been reported. In vitro studies have indicated a lack of cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 75 µg/mL, suggesting a favorable safety profile within these tested limits.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Maackia Amurensis Stem Extract is a valuable botanical ingredient, showcasing potent in-vitro efficacy in both skin brightening and anti-aging applications, and is broadly compatible with all skin types.
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