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Moumoujus

LYCIUM BARBARUM FRUIT EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 85085-46-7 / ASTRINGENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Derived from Goji berries, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract is a multi-functional ingredient rich in potent antioxidants, polysaccharides, and carotenoids. It is engineered to deliver comprehensive skin benefits, including visible wrinkle reduction, enhanced collagen synthesis, and protection against oxidative stress.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Astringent Collagen Booster Hydrator Skin Conditioner Wound Healing Support 5α-Reductase Inhibitor (potential)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract functions by neutralizing free radicals through its high content of vitamins C, E, carotenoids, and polyphenols, thereby mitigating oxidative stress and preventing premature aging. It stimulates collagen production, crucial for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. Its anti-inflammatory properties soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. Furthermore, it aids in skin hydration, nourishment, and regeneration, acts as a cosmetic astringent by tightening pores and managing excess oil, and may protect against photoaging by influencing matrix metalloproteinase activity. Specific fractions have also demonstrated inhibition of 5α-reductase.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Mature facial skin exhibited a smoothing effect and measurably reduced wrinkle visibility within 60 minutes of application.
  2. 02 Lycium barbarum polysaccharides (LBP) significantly accelerated early-stage wound healing in human skin substitutes, evidenced by increased collagen staining and enhanced fibroblast migration.
  3. 03 Deep Eutectic Solvents (DESs) extracts inhibited 5α-reductase activity by 44.24% in HaCaT cells, with a zeaxanthin dipalmitate-rich fraction (Fr-5) achieving 66.84% inhibition at the same concentration.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Data specific to ingredient 'dusting' at ineffective concentrations for marketing purposes is not available in the provided research.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract demonstrates superior physical stability and retention of active compounds (92% polysaccharides, 88% flavonoids) within an oil-in-water emulsion at pH 5.5-6.5 over 3 months. It also maintains stability under thermal and luminous stress. While carotenoids are stable in acidic conditions, they may undergo saponification at pH values exceeding 7.0. Formulations may experience reduced viscosity with the addition of this extract, potentially increasing thixotropy.

Conflicts

  • Avoid formulating above pH 7.0 to prevent saponification of carotenoids.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract is generally considered safe for cosmetic use at appropriate concentrations and is recognized by European Union Cosmetics Regulation. Clinical observations indicate a low incidence of allergic reactions, though a sensitivity test is advised for individuals with highly sensitive skin. It has demonstrated non-irritating properties and no toxicity in skin cell lines.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract is a valuable, versatile ingredient offering scientifically-backed benefits for anti-aging, hydration, inflammation reduction, and skin barrier support, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types and formulations.

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