Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates as a surfactant by reducing interfacial tension between incompatible substances through its unique molecular structure, which possesses both lipophilic and hydrophilic segments. It effectively facilitates and stabilizes emulsions, particularly water-in-silicone systems. As a derivative of polyethylene glycol, it is inherently water-soluble and non-greasy, which often correlates with good skin tolerance. Manufacturers also indicate its activity as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial and a moisturizer.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This silicone emulsifier is integral for creating stable water-in-silicone emulsions, often demonstrating robust stability when subjected to protocols such as storage at 110°F for 4 weeks without compromise in pH, viscosity, color, odor, texture, or visual separation. It possesses an indicated HLB value of approximately 2.2, characterizing it as a water-in-oil emulsifier.
Conflicts
- Stabilizing salts (e.g., NaCl or MgSO4) should be omitted from water-in-silicone emulsions formulated with similar silicone emulsifiers, as they can lead to destabilization of the composition.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed this ingredient safe for use, including it in a safety assessment of related polyoxyalkylene siloxane copolymers. Genotoxicity testing of a closely related lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone indicated no genotoxic activity at concentrations up to 1500 μg/plate. Clinical studies on related dimethicone copolyol ingredients reported them to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing, even when applied at 40% in aqueous solution or undiluted. Dimethicone-based compounds are generally not associated with comedogenicity. The ingredient has been voluntarily reported to the FDA's VCRP for use in 53 leave-on and 32 rinse-off cosmetic products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
LAURYL ISOPENTYL-PEG/PPG-18/18 METHICONE is a valuable and safe ingredient, adept at stabilizing challenging water-in-silicone emulsions while offering versatile functions as a solvent, and contributing a pleasant skin feel with potential moisturizing and antimicrobial benefits across all skin types.
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