Science
Mechanism of Action
The fermentation process liberates beneficial compounds such as amino acids, peptides, organic acids (like lactic acid), enzymes, and antioxidants, which are present in the ferment filtrate. These components work synergistically to promote cellular renewal, refine uneven skin texture, and improve overall skin tone. The ingredient fortifies the skin barrier, optimizes moisture retention, and offers protection against environmental stressors. By contributing to a balanced skin microbiome, it strengthens the skin's innate protective mechanisms and helps mitigate irritation. Specifically, the fermented Citrus unshiu elements actively suppress inflammation, stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid, and boost the expression of filaggrin and SPT within keratinocytes, critical for robust skin hydration and barrier integrity. It also provides antioxidant defense against oxidative damage.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Lactobacillus extracts have demonstrated efficacy in stimulating beta-defensin production, reducing acne, and decreasing skin sensitivity, with preferred concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 30%, and optimally between 1% and 20%.
- 02 A related ingredient, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate, showed a notable 47% reduction in redness in an in-vivo study with 5 participants when applied at a 5% concentration.
- 03 Fermented dried Citrus unshiu peel extracts (FCU), utilizing a related microorganism (Bacillus subtilis), effectively suppressed LPS-induced nitric oxide and key inflammatory markers (iNOS, COX-2 proteins/mRNAs, TNF-α, IL-6, PGE2) in macrophages. These extracts additionally induced hyaluronic acid production and increased the expression of Filaggrin and SPT in HaCaT keratinocyte cells, indicating enhanced skin moisturizing efficacy and anti-inflammatory activity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research data does not contain specific information to classify this ingredient as commonly 'dusted' or to establish a 'dusting threshold'. While efficacy is noted at relatively low concentrations in some studies, this does not inherently imply dusting practices.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
No specific optimal pH range was identified; however, the organic acids produced during fermentation contribute to maintaining a healthy skin pH. Formulators should be aware that the presence of essential oil components in Citrus unshiu extracts might negatively affect ingredient stability or viability at higher concentrations (e.g., above 5% in studies relating to cryoprotective agents). General formulation concerns for related ingredients also highlight potential aesthetic or stability issues that could limit usefulness, and an increased risk of irritation when combined with other problematic ingredients.
Conflicts
- Caution is advised when incorporating into formulations where skin depigmentation is not a desired outcome, as the ingredient may exhibit tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, potentially leading to a skin lightening effect.
- No specific chemical incompatibilities were identified. However, exercise caution when combining with other ingredients known to increase the likelihood of skin irritation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Panel concluded that related Lactobacillus ferments are safe for use in cosmetics, with Lactobacillus Ferment specifically used up to 5.6% in face and neck products. However, data indicates this ingredient may possess tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, suggesting a potential skin lightening effect. Formulators should consider this when designing products where skin depigmentation is not desired. While generally well tolerated, individual allergic reactions or sensitivities may occur, particularly in individuals sensitive to citrus fruits.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ferment filtrate offers a valuable blend of skin barrier enhancement, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and microbiome-balancing benefits, making it a multifaceted ingredient for various skin concerns, though its potential for skin lightening requires careful formulation consideration.
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