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ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN.

Valuable / CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is an oil-soluble derivative of hydrolyzed keratin, precisely engineered to enhance skin hydration and fortify the skin barrier. It functions dualistically as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin, and an occlusive, forming a protective film to seal in hydration.

Summary

skin conditioning humectant occlusive surfactant/cleansing hair conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This keratin derivative operates by attracting and binding water molecules to the skin's surface, thereby functioning as a powerful humectant vital for maintaining skin barrier integrity and preventing transepidermal moisture loss. Its rich amino acid profile provides essential building blocks that support skin cell regeneration and repair processes. The ingredient forms a protective layer on the skin, which efficiently retains moisture, contributing to a perceptibly soft, smooth texture and enhancing both skin elasticity and firmness. Notably, its composition includes low molecular weight fractions capable of penetrating the stratum corneum, alongside higher molecular weight fractions that establish a superficial protective film on the epidermis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

For optimal bioactivity, it is recommended to incorporate Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin during the cooling phase of formulation, avoiding excessively high temperatures. While specific pH ranges for this derivative are not detailed, a 2 wt% solution of Hydrolyzed Keratin has shown stability for hair treatments at a pH of 5.5–6.0.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed Hydrolyzed Keratin as safe for use in cosmetics, demonstrating no irritation or sensitization in human studies at concentrations up to 25%. The SCCS also considers Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin (and AMP-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin) safe, subject to potential conditions related to purity, maximum concentration, or product categories as outlined in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation. While nitrosamine formation is a theoretical concern if secondary amino impurities are present, this risk is effectively managed through regulatory standards and robust formulation practices. It is important to note that EWG Skin Deep rates 'AMP-ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN' with 'HIGH Use Restrictions', a distinct but related compound.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a valuable ingredient for holistic skin hydration and barrier enhancement, providing effective humectant and occlusive benefits with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity.

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