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ISOSORBIDE DICAPRYLATE/CAPRATE.

Valuable CAS 1215036-04-6 / PLASTICISER

Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate (IDC) is a sophisticated di-ester derived from renewable plant sources, engineered to profoundly enhance skin hydration and fortify the epidermal barrier. It functions as a powerful moisturizer and emollient, delivering a smooth, non-greasy feel while optimizing skin health at a cellular level.

Summary

Skin-identical ingredient Emollient Moisturizer/humectant Skin barrier strengthening Anti-inflammatory Skin conditioning agent Keratinocyte differentiation support

Science

Mechanism of Action

IDC operates through multiple biological pathways to optimize skin function. It significantly up-regulates Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), a crucial transmembrane protein facilitating water and glycerol transport into skin cells, ensuring superior hydration distribution within the stratum corneum. Furthermore, IDC enhances barrier integrity by increasing E-cadherin expression, reinforcing tight junctions and desmosomes, and stimulates ceramide synthase for elevated in-vivo ceramide levels. It also up-regulates CD44, a hyaluronic acid binding receptor, supports healthy keratinocyte differentiation, and exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, potentially mitigating itch through specific cellular pathways.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 2–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a 3-fold superior hydration effect compared to 2% glycerin alone.
  2. 02 Improved hydration by 35% for moderately dry skin, and 125% for dry skin generally, also improving normal skin hydration by 35%.
  3. 03 Achieved an 82% improvement in hydration and a 22% reduction in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).
  4. 04 Led to a 58% improvement in hydration for moderately dry skin, significantly outperforming IDC monotherapy (35% improvement).
  5. 05 Resulted in a 133% improvement in hydration and a 31% reduction in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) for severely dry skin.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data available in the provided research to suggest dusting behavior.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient is stable across a pH range of 4 to 8, making it versatile for most cosmetic formulations. It exhibits excellent thermal stability, decomposing only above 160°C, thus allowing its use in hot-process emulsions without degradation.

Synergies

  • Glycerin (enhances hydration and barrier benefits)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate is widely regarded as safe, with 100% of 105 companies in PubChem reporting it as not meeting GHS hazard criteria. It presents a low potential for skin irritation or sensitization and is categorized as 'Irritant Free' by SkinSAFE. While no specific CIR, SCCS, or FDA safety assessments were found in the provided data, related ingredients like sorbitan esters and triglycerides have established safety profiles.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate is a valuable active ingredient for comprehensive skin hydration and barrier repair, particularly potent when synergized with glycerin, offering broad compatibility and a favorable safety profile.

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