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Moumoujus

ISOCETETH-20.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

ISOCETETH-20 is a nonionic surfactant that serves as a versatile emulsifier and solubilizer in precision skincare formulations. It efficiently blends oil and water, ensuring product stability and enhancing the incorporation of lipophilic ingredients. This ingredient also contributes to a smooth skin feel and aids in gentle cleansing.

Summary

emulsifying solubilizing surfactant cleansing

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a nonionic surfactant, ISOCETETH-20 modifies interfacial tension to facilitate the formation of stable oil-in-water emulsions, effectively mixing otherwise immiscible liquids. It acts as a solubilizer by creating microemulsions, enabling the dispersion of oil-loving ingredients, such as fragrances, within water-based products. Furthermore, its surface-active properties reduce product surface tension, promoting even application and contributing to a mild cleansing action on the skin, while imparting smoothness and spreadability.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range ≤5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded ISOCETETH-20 is safe at concentrations up to 21% in personal care formulations when appropriately formulated to be non-irritating.
  2. 02 Regulatory assessments indicate its use in leave-on products, such as skin creams and lotions, typically at concentrations up to 5%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

ISOCETETH-20 functions as a critical formulation aid (emulsifier, solubilizer) rather than an active ingredient with a direct performance claim. Its concentration is dictated by formulation needs for stability and texture, not by a minimum effective dose for an active benefit.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

ISOCETETH-20 exhibits robust stability across a wide pH range (4.0-9.0), encompassing both acidic and alkaline conditions, without susceptibility to hydrolysis. It is compatible with common cosmetic substances and stable under typical conditions of use. With a high HLB value of 15.7, it is highly effective in promoting exceptionally stable oil-in-water emulsions, particularly when synergistically combined with co-emulsifiers such as glyceryl stearate. It is also colorless, preserving the visual integrity of formulations.

Synergies

  • Glyceryl Stearate (for enhanced emulsion stability)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
21%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel determined ISOCETETH-20 is safe for use up to 21% when formulated to be non-irritating. However, it is classified as an eye irritant at higher concentrations (50-100%) and can cause skin/eye irritation in products containing ≥ 20%. As an ethoxylated ingredient, there are general concerns regarding potential contamination with 1,4-Dioxane, a toxic impurity.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

ISOCETETH-20 is a valuable nonionic surfactant, crucial for achieving stable emulsions and solubilizing diverse ingredients across a broad spectrum of cosmetic products, provided it is incorporated at concentrations that ensure a non-irritating final formulation.

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