Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions through its rich composition of bioactive compounds, including hyperforin, hypericin, and various flavonoids. Hyperforin acts as a potent antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals and mitigating oxidative stress that contributes to premature aging. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities soothe irritated and reddened skin. Furthermore, hyperforin's antimicrobial activity can help manage acne-prone skin and combat odor-causing bacteria. The extract also enhances skin hydration, improving the look of dry or compromised skin, and offers a mild exfoliating effect by facilitating the removal of dead skin cells. Certain constituents also possess astringent qualities, which aid in pore decongestion, reduction of excess oil, and temporary skin tightening.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.07%
Key findings
- 01 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Hypericum perforatum-derived ingredients are safe for topical use within a concentration range of 0.00002% to 0.07% in cosmetic products.
- 02 In topical St. John's Wort oils, hyperforin (1-2.4 μg/g) and adhyperforin (0.005-3.2 μg/g) were detected. Hypericin (0.3-6.6 μg/g) and pseudohypericin (0.1-3.3 μg/g) were also present, with their concentrations correlating to antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Trypanosoma brucei.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While beneficial, Hypericum perforatum extract, particularly its hypericin content, carries a risk of photosensitivity. Concentrations exceeding the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel's recommended maximum of 0.07% are considered a red flag, as they significantly increase the potential for adverse photosensitive reactions upon sun exposure. Products formulated above this threshold may be deemed unsafe for general topical application.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The key bioactive components, including flavonols, hyperforins, and hypericins, are inherently photosensitive and exhibit low long-term thermal stability. Hyperforins and hypericins have a short shelf-life, typically less than 4 months (t(90)), even with the inclusion of stabilizing agents like ascorbic and citric acids. While certain extracts (e.g., glycerol-water, propylene glycol-water) demonstrate good water solubility and stability, the phototoxicity and high light sensitivity of hypericin necessitate careful formulation and packaging, such as the use of amber containers, to preserve ingredient integrity and efficacy.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded in 2014 that Hypericum perforatum-derived ingredients are safe for topical application up to 0.07%. However, a critical concern is its potential for photosensitivity, primarily due to the compound hypericin, which can heighten skin's susceptibility to sunlight, leading to adverse reactions. It is important to note that the FDA has approved a hypericin-free alcohol distillate form for use as a natural flavoring in alcoholic beverages, highlighting the specific photosensitivity concerns associated with hypericin.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hypericum Perforatum Leaf Extract offers valuable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties beneficial for various skin types, provided it is formulated below the 0.07% concentration threshold to mitigate photosensitivity risks.
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