Science
Mechanism of Action
HYDROXYSTEARIC/LINOLENIC/OLEIC POLYGLYCERIDES operates multifacetedly on the skin. It acts primarily as an emollient, softening and smoothing the skin while also functioning as a water-binding and plumping agent. Its linolenic acid component contributes antioxidant and reparative benefits. A key active constituent, 10-Hydroxystearic Acid (HSA), functions as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist. This action leads to increased production of collagen types I and III, specifically increasing collagen type I by 96% and type III by 244% in in vitro studies, and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by 57% (all P < 0.01). HSA also inhibits matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression by 83% (P < 0.01), which helps prevent collagen degradation. Furthermore, HSA mitigates UV-induced damage by reducing sunburn cell induction by 34% compared to vehicle control and downregulating UV-induced p53 expression by 46% (P < 0.01) in irradiated skin, while modulating fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to reduce melanogenesis and improve the appearance of pores.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In a clinical trial, application of a formulation containing 10-Hydroxystearic Acid (HSA) resulted in a statistically significant decrease in skin pore surface and volume (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks.
- 02 Age spots showed significant depigmentation (P < 0.05) after 4 weeks of HSA application.
- 03 In vitro studies demonstrated that HSA dose-dependently increased collagen type I by 96% and collagen type III by 244% (P < 0.01).
- 04 Ex vivo skin models showed a 57% increase in collagen type III levels with HSA (P < 0.01).
- 05 HSA inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 gene expression by 83% (P < 0.01).
- 06 HSA mitigated sunburn cell induction by 34% compared to vehicle control.
- 07 HSA reduced UV-induced p53 upregulation by 46% compared to vehicle control (P < 0.01) in irradiated skin.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Polyglycerol esters are susceptible to degradation by lipases, and their hydrolysis is accelerated by the presence of strong bases or acids due to their ester linkages.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, along with related polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating. General polyglycerol esters typically do not cause adverse effects even at a test concentration of 5 wt%. While the component hydroxystearic acid has been used up to 13.2% in some cosmetics, a specific case report detailed severe contact dermatitis from a lip balm containing 10% hydroxystearic acid, with positive patch tests down to 0.001%, indicating a potential for irritation from the monomer in highly sensitive individuals.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This versatile polyglyceride delivers significant skin conditioning and plumping benefits, supported by its ability to boost collagen, reduce age spots and pore visibility, and offer photoprotection, making it a valuable ingredient for advanced skincare formulations.
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