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Moumoujus

HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 106-14-9 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Hydroxystearic Acid is a multi-functional ingredient recognized for its targeted efficacy in precision skincare, notably improving the appearance of age spots and refining visible pores, alongside its potent collagen-boosting and skin-softening benefits.

Summary

Reduces age spot pigmentation Minimizes conspicuous pores Stimulates collagen type III formation Emollient Thickener Surfactant Cleansing agent Emulsifying agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist, a key action that modulates the expression of cellular components like p53, sunburn cells, and matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1), while also influencing collagen synthesis. This comprehensive cellular modulation contributes to a reduction in age spots and minimizes conspicuous pores. Beyond its cellular impact, Hydroxystearic Acid functions as an emollient, providing significant nourishment and softening to the skin. It also serves as a thickener to enhance product consistency and can act as a surfactant in cleansing formulations, facilitating the emulsification of oil and dirt.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Ex vivo studies on human skin demonstrated that 0.1% Hydroxystearic Acid significantly stimulated collagen type III formation by up to 57% over a 6-day period.
  2. 02 Clinical trials revealed a statistically significant reduction in both the surface area and volume of skin pores after 8 weeks of consistent application. Additionally, age spots showed a significant decrease in pigmentation compared to surrounding skin after 4 weeks.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Hydroxystearic Acid exhibits excellent stability, remaining robustly resistant to oil, solvents, and water across a wide range of temperatures. It maintains its integrity for a typical shelf life of up to two years.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
13.2%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that Hydroxystearic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic applications, with reported concentrations reaching up to 13.2%. While some experimental antiperspirant formulations containing 7% Hydroxystearic Acid caused irritation under exaggerated, occluded patch testing, the CIR Panel noted that this is not indicative of irritation under normal conditions of use. Furthermore, the FDA lists Hydroxystearic Acid as an indirect food additive, supporting its overall safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Hydroxystearic Acid is a highly valuable multi-functional ingredient, clinically shown to effectively reduce age spot pigmentation and minimize pore appearance, while significantly boosting collagen production and delivering essential emollient benefits.

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