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HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/POLYSORBATE 20 CROSSPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS - / HAIR FIXING

This advanced copolymer, formed from hydroxypropyldimethicone and polysorbate 20, creates a delicate, breathable film on the skin. It effectively minimizes moisture loss while imparting a silky-smooth texture, contributing to the appearance of softened fine lines and imperfections.

Summary

film former emollient skin-conditioning agent moisture barrier enhancer slip modifier surface modifier viscosity controlling thickening agent absorbent bulking agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a specialized dimethicone crosspolymer, this ingredient functions by establishing a non-occlusive, breathable polymeric film on the skin's surface. This barrier actively helps to retain moisture, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss. Beyond its hydrating properties, it provides immediate sensorial benefits, delivering a silky-smooth tactile experience and subtly blurring the appearance of fine lines. Furthermore, it contributes significantly to product formulation by acting as a thickening, bulking, and surface-modifying agent.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
46%

While not inherently described as a dusty raw material, HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/POLYSORBATE 20 CROSSPOLYMER is utilized in product formats such as powder cosmetics, where it may become airborne at concentrations up to 46%. It is also found in spray products up to 20%. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed its safety in these applications, concluding that absorption into the skin or through inhalation is unlikely due to its large molecular weight.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Unknown
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Specific stability data for this exact crosspolymer is limited. However, the polysorbate 20 component is generally known to be susceptible to oxidative degradation influenced by factors such as temperature, iron impurities, oxygen exposure, and pH variations. In contrast, other dimethicone crosspolymers have demonstrated robust stability for periods extending beyond one year.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
46%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that dimethicone crosspolymer ingredients, including Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer, are safe under current practices of use and concentration. The panel highlighted that these polymers are considered unlikely to be absorbed into the skin due to their large molecular weights and typically low concentrations in formulations, mitigating concerns for systemic exposure.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/POLYSORBATE 20 CROSSPOLYMER is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, offering significant moisture retention, enhanced skin feel, and critical formulation benefits across diverse skin types, validated by its favorable safety profile.

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