Science
Mechanism of Action
Hydroxyethyl Urea functions as a powerful humectant by forming strong hydrogen bonds with water, effectively drawing moisture from the environment and integrating it into the skin's outermost layer. This action significantly increases skin hydration, promoting a softer texture. Beyond surface moisturization, it strengthens the skin's natural barrier, encourages cell turnover, and can penetrate the stratum corneum to alleviate dryness, visibly plump fine lines, and enhance skin elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceFor robust moisturizing efficacy and a non-tacky feel, 5% is demonstrably effective. Usage extends up to 20.6% in various formulations.
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated a moisturizing ability similar to glycerin, notably with a superior non-sticky and non-tacky skin feel.
- 02 Effectively utilized in leave-on moisturizing products, indicating significant efficacy within this concentration range.
- 03 Associated with substantial improvements in skin hydration (increase of 131.75%), reduction in redness (69.30%), decreased pigmentation (35.77%), and lowered itchiness (92.63%). Furthermore, it enhanced smoothness (55.00%), reduced roughness (148.54%), and diminished scaliness (87.09%).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Hydroxyethyl Urea is an active ingredient with well-documented efficacy starting from 5% and extending up to 20.6% in leave-on formulations. Its established effective range indicates it is typically included for its functional benefits rather than as a 'dusting' ingredient for minimal impact.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in solid form and maintains integrity under weak alkaline or acidic conditions. It integrates easily into the aqueous phase at various temperatures and can enhance the stability of emulsion systems in colder environments.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Hydroxyethyl Urea safe for cosmetic use within current practices and concentrations, provided it is formulated to be non-irritating. While high concentrations (e.g., 57.58%) showed slight irritation in animal studies, it was not found to be a sensitizer. Dermal absorption is anticipated to be limited, and there is no concern for carcinogenic potential, supported by negative genotoxicity studies.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydroxyethyl Urea is a valuable humectant, offering significant hydration and skin barrier support with a pleasant, non-tacky feel, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types and formulations.
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References
Sources