Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through several key mechanisms to improve skin health: it enhances skin hydration by improving moisture retention and can impart firming and tightening effects. Its potent antioxidant activity effectively neutralizes free radicals and inhibits the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), concurrently boosting the activity of intrinsic antioxidant enzymes such as catalase and superoxide dismutase (SOD). Furthermore, it exhibits anti-inflammatory properties and demonstrably inhibits UV-induced MMP-1 expression, an enzyme critical for collagen degradation, thereby contributing to the prevention of premature aging and reduction of pigmentation. Its composition of smaller peptides facilitates easy skin absorption, optimizing its hydrating and moisture-retaining efficacy.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.5%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Clinical data, although limited to specific studies, provides demonstrable efficacy in reducing UV-induced wrinkles at a 0.5% concentration, suggesting genuine biological activity rather than exaggerated claims.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The protein solubility of sesame protein hydrolysate is significantly influenced by pH, exhibiting minimal solubility around pH 5 and increased solubility under both acidic (e.g., pH 3) and basic (e.g., pH 8-10) conditions. For the production of sesame protein hydrolysate, optimal conditions were identified at pH 9, 55°C, and 90 minutes of hydrolysis. Formulators should also be aware that sesamol, a component found in sesame, is incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, which may affect the overall stability of the extract in certain formulations.
Conflicts
- Potential for allergic reactions in some individuals, including those without known gluten allergies.
- Incompatibility with strong oxidants, particularly concerning sesamol components.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein is safe for use in cosmetic products at current practices and concentrations. However, a specific derivative, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, has been reported to potentially cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, including those not allergic to gluten. This potential for sensitization contributes to a moderate risk assessment, requiring careful consideration during formulation, especially for broad consumer bases.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Sesame Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient that provides significant hydration, potent antioxidant protection, and demonstrated anti-aging benefits, making it suitable for diverse skincare formulations seeking comprehensive skin health improvements.
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References
Sources