Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a robust antioxidant, actively neutralizing free radicals and mitigating oxidative stress. It significantly supports dermal health by fostering collagen production, thereby enhancing skin's elasticity and firmness. The ingredient is believed to improve microcirculation, contributing to refined skin tone and color. For hair, it stimulates growth by extending the anagen (growth) phase of hair follicles and counteracting androgenic effects on dermal papilla cells. It also induces melanogenesis, or melanin production, via the p38 MAPK pathway. Additionally, it exhibits natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, helps tone the skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines, establishes a lasting moisture barrier, and balances sebum production. It is rich in beneficial compounds such as resveratrol and quercetin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence8%
Key findings
- 01 In human hair follicle organ cultures, concentrations of 20 μg/ml and 50 μg/ml notably increased the ratio of anagen-phase hair follicles to 78.9% and 100% respectively, demonstrating strong hair growth support.
- 02 Studies on human SKMEL-28 melanoma cells revealed a dose-dependent induction of melanin formation, with concentrations from 312.5 μg/ml to 2500 μg/ml, indicating its role in pigmentation.
- 03 Topical application at 1-16% (w/v) resulted in a dose-dependent increase in SOD1 immunoreactivity, protein levels, and enzymatic activity in UVB-irradiated skin. Concentrations of 8% and 16% (w/v) restored SOD1 levels to 80-90% of control, showcasing significant antioxidant protection.
- 04 A clinical study observed a significant increase in black hair and elevated levels of key melanin markers, including total melanin, α-MSH, MC1R, and TYR, though specific concentrations were not provided.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No specific data on dusting or common overuse for this ingredient was found in the research.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While an analytical study identified optimal separation of bioactive compounds in a water extract at pH 2.5, this does not directly specify an optimal pH range for cosmetic formulation stability. The ingredient is generally considered safe for use in lower concentrations.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically evaluated Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract. However, 'Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract,' derived from the same plant species, is on the 2024 Final Priorities List. While generally regarded as safe for topical application in lower concentrations, a patch test is strongly advised for individuals with sensitive skin due to documented allergic reactions such as rashes and itching. It is imperative to distinguish topical use from oral consumption, as oral intake of Polygonum multiflorum has been associated with severe and potentially fatal liver injury.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract is a valuable active for comprehensive skin and hair health, offering antioxidant, anti-aging, and pro-pigmentary benefits; however, sensitive skin types should perform a patch test due to documented reactions.
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