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HYDROLYZED PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS SEED EXTRACT.

Valuable / EMULSION STABILISING, FILM FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract is a bioactive peptide derived from Sacha Inchi seeds, specifically engineered to enhance skin structure and visibly reduce signs of aging. It functions as an effective skin conditioning and film-forming agent, promoting a smoother, firmer, and more youthful complexion.

Summary

emulsion stabilising film forming skin conditioning anti-aging skin firming skin smoothing skin restructuring

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a peptide, this extract works to significantly increase dermal density, initiating skin restructuring that both smooths the skin's surface and diminishes the appearance of wrinkles. It achieves this by upregulating genes crucial for Extracellular Matrix (ECM) organization and repair, such as Connective Tissue Growth Factor (CTGF) and FOXO3. This biological action promotes healthy cell adhesion, migration, and proliferation, facilitating the proper alignment of collagen and elastin fibers within the dermal matrix to repair and prevent dermal elastosis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A clinical study utilizing a product containing NaturePep® Sacha Inchi (Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract) demonstrated a 45% reduction in facial sagginess over 28 days. The study also reported a decrease in skin roughness by over 20% across three distinct parameters within 21 days.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

For optimal stability in emulsion formulations requiring heat, it is recommended to incorporate this ingredient during the cooling phase, specifically when the temperature drops below 40°C (104°F), and after the emulsion has fully formed. It should always be incorporated into a formulation, not applied directly to the skin.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not yet evaluated this ingredient. While 'HYDROLYZED PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS SEED EXTRACT' is listed as 'RESTRICTED' for EWG VERIFIED products without adequate substantiation, EWG notes general concerns regarding the P. volubilis plant itself, including recorded allergic reactions (some severe) and potential in vitro hepatotoxic effects from certain P. volubilis substances. Although general references to 'Carcinogenic to humans' are cited, EWG's specific score for 'Cancer' for this ingredient is 'No Data'. Hydrolyzed vegetable proteins are generally approved as food additives by the FDA. In vitro studies have indicated no cytotoxic effects from P. volubilis seeds at concentrations up to 400 μg/mL in specific cell lines.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This peptide-rich extract is a valuable ingredient for firming, smoothing, and anti-aging formulations, demonstrating significant clinical improvements in facial sagginess and skin roughness with broad skin type compatibility, though general plant-related allergy concerns warrant consideration.

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