Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several key pathways to enhance skin health. It exhibits potent antioxidant activity by actively scavenging various free radicals (DPPH, ABTS, hydroxyl, superoxide anions) and may also bolster the skin's intrinsic defense systems by activating the Nrf2/Keap1 pathway, thereby mitigating oxidative stress. For anti-aging, it inhibits elastase activity, an enzyme responsible for elastin degradation, and promotes the synthesis of pro-collagen type 1. Its skin brightening effects stem from its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, a crucial enzyme in melanin production. Additionally, it demonstrates anti-inflammatory action by suppressing nitric oxide (NO) production and exhibits anti-biofilm properties, particularly against *S. aureus*, by disrupting biofilm formation. Within human keratinocytes, it provides a dual antioxidant benefit, preventing intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial superoxide (SOX) while directly neutralizing free radicals.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Showed superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of 69.7 ± 2.31.
- 02 Exhibited 36.2% inhibition in elastase activity.
- 03 Resulted in 434 ng/mL of pro-collagen type 1 synthesis.
- 04 Showed tyrosinase inhibition of 24.5% (L-tyrosine) and 16.6% (L-DOPA) in a dose-dependent manner.
- 05 Reduced biofilm formation by up to 71% for *S. aureus* and 18% for *Ps. aeruginosa*.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research data does not contain information regarding dusting analysis for this ingredient.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is readily prepared as an aqueous solution, indicating good water solubility. Optimal conditions for mycelial growth range from pH 6.5-7.0, with enzymatic extraction of polysaccharides best performed at pH 7.2. Formulators should note that certain aromatic compounds within the extract may have limited water solubility, which could impact their recovery in aqueous preparations.
Safety
Safety Profile
This specific ingredient has not undergone review by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), or FDA. Therefore, general safety data for related yeast or mushroom species may not be directly applicable, and specific assessments are pending.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient demonstrates valuable multi-functional efficacy in vitro, offering significant antioxidant, anti-aging, brightening, and anti-inflammatory benefits, though further safety and in-vivo human studies are needed.
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