Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by forming a lightweight, protective film on the skin's surface, which effectively minimizes transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and locks in moisture, promoting skin softness and suppleness. Its rich profile of amino acids (e.g., arginine, lysine) and peptides supports the skin's natural barrier function and facilitates cellular regeneration processes, leading to a smoother and more even skin tone. Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is also capable of activating the expression of aquaporins, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), and filaggrin, which collectively enhance intrinsic skin moisturization and elasticity. Additionally, it exhibits mild surfactant properties, aiding in gentle cleansing.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.05%
Key findings
- 01 In human skin samples treated for 24 hours, observed decreased cellular stress, improved preservation of cutaneous structures, and enhanced moisturization of the stratum corneum.
- 02 Identified as a preferred effective concentration range in cosmetic formulations for maintaining or restoring skin moisturization.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research data does not indicate that Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is commonly 'dusted' or associated with 'red flag' concentrations that pose significant risks, aside from potential instability or irritation at very high degrees of hydrolysis (>20% DH) during formulation.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and cosmetic efficacy are typically achieved with a Degree of Hydrolysis (DH) between 5-15%; a DH exceeding 20% may lead to irritation or formulation instability. For acidic formulations, optimal performance and aggregation prevention are observed at pH 4-5, with increased protein solubility noted at pH 4.5 and pH 7.0. Pre-hydrating the ingredient at room temperature before heating can mitigate clumping. The addition of stabilizers like xanthan gum can further enhance heat tolerance in neutral pH products.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is safe for cosmetic applications at current practices of use and concentration. Human dermal studies showed no irritation with a 25% aqueous solution. Its use is approved by regulatory bodies like the European Cosmetics Regulation, and Pea Protein (>80% protein) has also achieved Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) status for food use, supporting its favorable safety profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is a valuable and highly compatible ingredient, offering significant moisturizing, barrier-supporting, and anti-aging benefits for all skin types, attributed to its rich peptide and amino acid composition.
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