Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a superior skin conditioning agent, delivering vital nutrients that bolster natural skin processes. Its hydrolyzed nature allows for facile absorption, forming a delicate, protective film that mitigates transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and amplifies skin water content. Mechanistically, it stimulates the expression of key hydrating components such as aquaporin-3 in keratinocytes, and boosts profilaggrin, filaggrin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), collectively reinforcing the skin's moisturization and structural integrity. Furthermore, it acts as an emollient, softening the skin, and can also exhibit surfactant properties to assist in cleansing.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical investigations demonstrate that Hydrolyzed Pea Extract at concentrations between 0.5% and 1% significantly increases aquaporin-3 expression in human keratinocytes and boosts profilaggrin, filaggrin, and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) levels in skin biopsies. This leads to profound improvements in moisturization and preservation of cutaneous structures, alongside a notable reduction in cellular stress markers.
- 02 A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study observed that a formulation containing pea proteins (alongside xyloglucan) applied twice daily over 14 days provided rapid and sustained relief for adult patients experiencing atopic dermatitis.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Hydrolyzed Pea Extract exhibits specific molecular mechanisms and clinically proven benefits at concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 1.5%. Formulations containing this ingredient below 0.5% should be critically evaluated for their claimed efficacy, particularly if specific benefits like enhanced aquaporin-3 or filaggrin expression are advertised.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Hydrolyzed Pea Extract exhibits high water solubility across a broad pH range, potentially from pH 2–10, making it versatile for aqueous formulations. For optimal stability and to prevent aggregation in acidic environments, a pH range of 4–5 is recommended. Enzymatic hydrolysis is preferred during its manufacturing for cosmetic applications, as it avoids the degradation of heat-sensitive amino acids and the formation of undesirable compounds associated with acid hydrolysis. Careful pH balancing is crucial in the final product to ensure ingredient integrity and efficacy.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Hydrolyzed Pea Protein as safe in current cosmetic uses. Human dermal studies have demonstrated no irritation or sensitization at concentrations up to 25% in aqueous solutions. Its safety is further supported by approval under European Cosmetics Regulation, and by FDA's assessment of hydrolyzed vegetable proteins (including pea) as safe in food and pesticide formulations up to 25%, with GRAS status for pea protein isolate in food up to 50%.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Pea Extract is a valuable ingredient for precision skincare, offering scientifically-backed hydration, barrier support, and conditioning benefits suitable for all skin types, with an excellent safety profile.
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References
Sources