Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by reinforcing the skin's intrinsic lipid barrier, thereby optimizing its capacity to retain moisture. It acts as a humectant, drawing and binding water to the stratum corneum, and simultaneously forms a breathable film on the skin's surface to reduce evaporative loss. Lower molecular weight fractions possess the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum, supporting natural repair mechanisms and stimulating fibroblast activity for enhanced collagen production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Hydrolyzed keratin nano peptides improved skin hydration by up to 40% in topical formulations through lipid barrier strengthening and enhanced water-binding capacity.
- 02 Increased stratum corneum hydration by 14%-23% when incorporated into an ointment base.
- 03 Reduced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by 26%-46% when added to an ointment base.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Hydrolyzed Keratin demonstrates significant efficacy in topical applications at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, which are well within common cosmetic formulation practices. Its proven benefits at these practical levels indicate it is not reliant on excessively high or unrealistic concentrations to deliver results, hence it is not considered a 'dusted' ingredient.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Water-soluble and stable when heated up to 60°C. For emulsions, it should be integrated into the aqueous phase after emulsion formation and at temperatures below 40°C. Optimal functionality for emulsifying and thickening is observed with higher average molecular weight (>3000 Da) variants.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded Hydrolyzed Keratin and related derivatives are safe for cosmetic use. Human studies up to 25% showed no irritation. While generally non-sensitizing in HRIPTs up to 5% and animal studies up to 25%, an isolated allergic reaction to a hair conditioner containing hydrolyzed keratin has been reported.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Keratin is a valuable ingredient, effectively enhancing skin hydration and barrier function across all skin types with a favorable safety profile, making it a reliable addition to moisturizing and protective formulations.
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