Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions primarily through its active triterpenoids, including asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. It stimulates fibroblast proliferation and boosts collagen synthesis (specifically types I and III) along with intracellular fibronectin, crucial for promoting wound healing and improving skin tensile strength. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces redness and irritation by downregulating pro-inflammatory mediators such as IL-1 and MMP-1. Furthermore, it offers robust antioxidant protection by neutralizing free radicals and activating NRF2 gene expression, thereby fortifying the skin against environmental damage and premature aging. It also significantly enhances skin hydration through increased hyaluronic acid production and strengthens the skin barrier by promoting key lipids, proteins, and differentiation markers like involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin. Potential antibacterial effects against common acne-causing bacteria and inhibition of matrix-degrading enzymes (metalloproteinase-1, hyaluronidase, elastase) further underscore its restorative capabilities, complemented by its role in stimulating cellular detoxification pathways like autophagy and mitophagy.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Topical preparations containing Centella Asiatica Extract at 5% demonstrated a significant increase in skin hydration and anti-inflammatory benefits without adverse reactions, improving overall skin quality.
- 02 A six-month treatment regimen led to substantial improvements in firmness, elasticity, and hydration in photoaged skin.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While clinical studies indicate significant benefits at 5% and typical usage ranges from 1-5%, some recommendations for leave-on facial products suggest concentrations up to 0.5%. Formulations claiming substantial efficacy for broad skin concerns, particularly in key marketing positions, should ideally contain at least 1% to ensure optimal results, with concentrations below 0.5% posing a red flag for potential dusting in leave-on facial applications.
The Formula
Formulation
Synergies
- Vitamin C (for enhanced photoaged skin improvement)
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally recognized for good skin tolerance, with adverse reactions being rare, particularly at effective concentrations up to 5%. An irritancy threshold above 30% has been noted. However, one component, Asiaticoside, was identified as a weak tumor promoter in hairless mouse epidermis in an isolated study. Due to a lack of research, use during breastfeeding is advised against, and a similar precautionary approach may be warranted during pregnancy.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Hydrolyzed Centella Asiatica Extract is a highly valuable ingredient for its comprehensive ability to soothe, repair, hydrate, and protect all skin types, with demonstrated efficacy and a strong safety profile.
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References
Sources
- nooance-paris.com ↗
- nih.gov ↗
- mederbeauty.com ↗
- specialchem.com ↗
- lotioncrafter.com ↗
- nordmann.global ↗
- medicalnewstoday.com ↗
- plamed.cn ↗
- researchgate.net ↗
- frontiersin.org ↗
- hydropeptide.com.es ↗
- cir-safety.org ↗
- clevelandclinic.org ↗