Science
Mechanism of Action
Through targeted fermentation, primary ginsenosides are biotransformed into more potent, highly bioavailable minor ginsenosides (e.g., Compound K, Rg3, Rh2, F2), improving their skin penetration. This ingredient actively boosts skin hydration by stimulating hyaluronic acid synthesis and aquaporin expression, concurrently fortifying the skin barrier via increased filaggrin mRNA levels. Its potent anti-aging action involves the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-9) and elastase, which are key enzymes in collagen and elastin degradation, while simultaneously promoting collagen production. Furthermore, it addresses hyperpigmentation by suppressing tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, reducing TYRP-1 and MITF mRNA expression. The ingredient exhibits strong antioxidant capacity by mitigating reactive oxygen species (ROS) and elevating total phenol and flavonoid content, protecting skin from oxidative stress, and possesses demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In HaCaT keratinocytes, a 100 μg/mL concentration of fermented ginseng with Aspergillus cristatus extract significantly enhanced hyaluronic acid synthesis, aquaporin expression, and filaggrin mRNA levels, while inhibiting MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts, indicating robust anti-aging and hydration efficacy.
- 02 A 100 μg/mL extract of black ginseng fermented by Aspergillus niger KHNT-1 demonstrated multifaceted anti-skin aging effects, including inhibition of tyrosinase and melanin production (reducing TYRP-1 and MITF mRNA), anti-wrinkle action through elastase inhibition, decreased MMP-1 and MMP-9, and increased COL-1 mRNA. This concentration also provided antioxidant benefits by lowering ROS in H2O2-induced HaCat cells.
- 03 At 1 μg/mL, an Aspergillus niger fermented ginseng extract showed an enhanced anti-proliferative effect on human HT-29 cell lines, attributed to an elevated output of ginsenoside cK.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The enzymatic activity of Aspergillus species, critical for the fermentation process, is optimally maintained within a narrow pH range of 4.5 to 5.0. This suggests optimal stability and efficacy of the ingredient may be achieved under these conditions in cosmetic formulations.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that Panax ginseng root and its hydrolyzed derivatives, including hydrolyzed ginseng root extract, are safe for use in cosmetic applications at current practices of concentration. Furthermore, the EWG Skin Deep database rates 'HYDROLYZED ASPERGILLUS/GINSENG EXTRACT FERMENT' as a 'LOW' hazard, specifically for cancer, allergies & immunotoxicity, and developmental & reproductive toxicity concerns.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This fermented ginseng extract offers a sophisticated, multifaceted approach to skin health, delivering significant anti-aging, brightening, hydrating, and antioxidant benefits, making it a valuable asset for advanced skincare formulations.
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References
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