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HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL/SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER CAPRATE/CAPRYLATE.

Valuable CAS - / EMULSION STABILISING, HUMECTANT

This oligo ester, derived from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, offers comprehensive conditioning benefits for both skin and hair. It functions as a long-lasting emollient and humectant, perceptibly smoothing damaged areas and enhancing moisture retention.

Emollient Hair conditioning Skin conditioning Humectant Emulsion stabilizing

Science

This short polymer exhibits unique structural properties, allowing it to adhere effectively to skin and hair. It works by filling in microscopic irregularities on damaged surfaces, resulting in a noticeably smoother texture. Its excellent cling factor helps to prevent trans-epidermal moisture loss, providing long-lasting hydration. Additionally, it acts as a humectant, attracting and retaining water, and serves as an emulsion stabilizing agent, contributing to the overall stability and integrity of cosmetic formulations.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–70%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Delivers emollient and smoothing properties in leave-on skin and hair products.
  2. 02 Supports intensive repair in rinse-off hair care formulations.
  3. 03 Contributes long-wear benefits to facial foundations.
  4. 04 Enhances the longevity of lipsticks.
  5. 05 Provides significant long-wear benefits in lip gloss formulations.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Information regarding dusting is not available in the provided research data.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Generally stable, however, it can undergo hydrolysis when exposed to strong acid or strong alkali conditions, which should be avoided during formulation.

Conflicts

  • strong acids
  • strong alkalis

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The ingredient itself has not been individually reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel. However, its primary component, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, is established as non-toxic and safe for skin and hair. Sebacic acid is also not considered problematic in cosmetic use. The ingredient is not listed on EWG's Skin Deep Restricted or Unacceptable Lists, and cosmetic ingredients in the EU undergo rigorous safety assessments.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

This ingredient is a valuable multi-functional polymer, offering significant long-lasting emollient, smoothing, and moisture-retaining benefits for diverse skin and hair applications, while also enhancing product stability.


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