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HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL/SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

This unique oligo ester, derived from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, acts as a versatile film-former and emollient. It enhances both skin and hair by providing long-lasting smoothing and conditioning, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain a healthy appearance.

Emollient Hair Conditioning Skin Conditioning Film-forming

Science

As a short polymer, this ingredient functions by forming a protective film on the skin and hair surface. This film actively fills in microscopic irregularities and areas of damage, leading to a perceptibly smoother feel. Its superior cling properties contribute significantly to retaining moisture, thereby improving skin condition and suppleness.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–70%
Optimal

For leave-on skin and daily hair conditioning, 0.5-2% is effective. Intensive hair treatments benefit from 2-5%.

Key findings

  1. 01 Delivers long-lasting emollient and smoothing properties in leave-on skin products and daily hair conditioners.
  2. 02 Recommended for intensive hair conditioning treatments.
  3. 03 Demonstrates efficacy in stabilizing emulsions and enhancing the homogeneity of cosmetic product application.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The copolymer is stable under normal conditions and relatively stable against heat. However, it is susceptible to hydrolysis when exposed to strong acid or strong alkali environments.

Conflicts

  • Strong acid
  • Strong alkali
  • Extreme heat
  • Extreme light
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
21%
Sensitization risk Low

The safety of Hydrogenated Castor Oil, a component of this copolymer, has been established by the CIR Expert Panel, with reported concentrations up to 21% in 2023. While sebacic acid lacks an individual safety assessment, it is not anticipated to pose a concern in cosmetic use. No specific SCCS opinion was found for this copolymer. The FDA lists a similar polymer under food additive regulations, but not this exact compound.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

This film-forming emollient is a valuable ingredient, offering long-lasting smoothing, conditioning, and moisture retention for all skin types with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity, making it suitable for a wide range of precision skincare applications.


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