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HEXACARBOXYMETHYL DIPEPTIDE-12.

Valuable CAS - / HUMECTANT

Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a sophisticated peptide engineered to promote cellular rejuvenation through autophagy activation. It significantly enhances skin barrier function, boosts hydration, and provides robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This versatile ingredient is effective across various skin types, supporting anti-aging, hydration, and even acne reduction.

Summary

skin conditioning anti-aging antioxidant humectant skin barrier protectant anti-inflammatory autophagy activation acne reduction

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide, along with its sodium salt, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, functions as a direct activator of Sirtuin1 (SIRT1), an NAD+-dependent enzyme. This action deacetylates the FoxO1 protein, initiating cellular autophagy—a vital process for cellular renewal, extended lifespan, and decelerated aging. It reinforces the skin's natural barrier by stimulating ceramide synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation, which collectively improve hydration and minimize transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Furthermore, it mimics pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a crucial natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and demonstrates strong free radical scavenging, antioxidant properties, and anti-inflammatory effects that can notably reduce acne.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.01–2%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated superior efficacy to 2% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in strengthening skin barrier function, enhancing water-retaining ability, increasing skin hydration, and reducing transdermal moisture loss. This concentration also significantly reduced acne appearance by up to 65% and provided notable free radical scavenging and anti-inflammatory effects.
  2. 02 Recommended for cream, lotion, and essence formulations to activate cellular autophagy, elevate water retention, boost reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, and deliver sensitive skin care, anti-aging, and antioxidant benefits.
  3. 03 Recommended for mask sheet applications to promote autophagy, increase water retention, enhance ROS scavenging, and offer sensitive skin care, anti-aging, and antioxidant properties.
  4. 04 The broader recommended dosage range for applications across Face Care, Men Care, and general Skin Care, specifically targeting anti-aging effects and the stimulation of autophagy.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

The peptide's metastability may be compromised in cosmetic formulations when exposed to minerals and surfactants. To enhance stability and skin penetration, nano-beadlet (nanovesicle) technology can be employed.

Conflicts

  • minerals
  • surfactants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically assessed Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 or its sodium salt. It is recognized by precisionFDA with a UNII (D7956W29BM). General safety data from The Good Scents Company indicates no GHS classification, hazard statements, or toxicity concerns. Clinical trials involving a related autophagy-inducing peptide (PTPD-12) cream reported no significant adverse effects, supporting a low risk profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, offering advanced cellular rejuvenation through autophagy, significant skin barrier enhancement, deep hydration, and targeted anti-inflammatory benefits for a wide range of skin concerns.

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