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HEPTASODIUM HEXACARBOXYMETHYL DIPEPTIDE-12.

Valuable CAS 1894171-13-1 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a sophisticated peptide derivative engineered to activate Sirtuin1 (SIRT1) and cellular autophagy. This multi-functional ingredient targets cellular rejuvenation, significantly enhances the skin's barrier function, boosts hydration, and provides potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.

Summary

Skin conditioning Activates autophagy Anti-aging Antioxidant Barrier repair Moisturizing Regenerating Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide derivative functions as a direct activator of Sirtuin1 (SIRT1), an NAD+-dependent deacetylase crucial for cellular metabolism, survival, and longevity. By stimulating SIRT1, it deacetylates FoxO1, initiating protective cell autophagy. This process rejuvenates cells, extends their lifespan, and slows signs of aging, particularly under cellular stress. Furthermore, it mimics pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a natural moisturizing factor, thereby improving skin barrier integrity, increasing hydration, and reducing transdermal moisture loss. It also exhibits robust antioxidant activity through enhanced free radical scavenging and promotion of antioxidant protein expression, alongside a notable anti-inflammatory effect via reduced PGE-2 and inflammatory cytokine secretion. The ingredient also signals endogenous repair mechanisms by promoting ceramide synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.01–2%
Optimal

0.05%

Key findings

  1. 01 At a concentration of 0.05%, it demonstrated superior efficacy compared to 2% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in improving skin barrier function and water-retaining ability, leading to increased hydration and reduced transdermal moisture loss.
  2. 02 The 0.05% concentration also exhibited significant anti-inflammatory effects, reducing acne appearance by up to 65%.
  3. 03 Recommended dosage for general peptide formulations ranges from 0.01% to 2%. Specifically for products containing Aquatide 5000 (which includes this peptide), 1-2% is suggested for creams, lotions, and essences, while 0.1-1% is recommended for mask sheets.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data suggests this ingredient is commonly 'dusted' or used at ineffective concentrations for marketing purposes. Efficacy is demonstrated at relatively low concentrations.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Due to its strong ionic hydrophilic groups, the ingredient faces challenges penetrating skin lipid membranes and may exhibit low stability in cosmetic formulations without advanced delivery systems. Encapsulation within nano-beadlets significantly improves its metastability, enhances skin penetration, and optimizes its moisturizing capabilities.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

While not formally reviewed by CIR or SCCS, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is recognized with a UNII (D7956W29BM) by precisionFDA. EWG indicates a low concern for non-reproductive organ system toxicity and limited evidence of cellular toxicity. Specific maximum concentration limits have not been established by major regulatory bodies in the provided data.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a valuable, multi-functional peptide offering significant benefits across anti-aging, hydration, barrier repair, and inflammation reduction, effective at low concentrations and suitable for diverse skin types.

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