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Moumoujus

HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90045-56-0 / ANTI-SEBUM, FRAGRANCE, SOOTHING

Helichrysum Italicum Extract is a sophisticated botanical ingredient recognized for its potent anabolic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory capabilities. It precisely targets mechanisms vital for skin regeneration and extracellular matrix integrity, offering significant reparative and protective benefits against aging and environmental damage.

Summary

Anti-aging Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Wound healing support Moisturizing Skin conditioning Antimicrobial UV protection support Antisebum Dermopurifying Soothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

Operating as a multifaceted skin conditioning agent, Helichrysum Italicum Extract exerts antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial actions. Crucially, it significantly upregulates the gene expressions of FGF-2 (1.74-fold change) and HAS-2 (3.10-fold change) in human skin fibroblast cells, promoting robust extracellular matrix anabolism essential for wound healing and anti-aging. FGF-2 facilitates re-epithelization, angiogenesis, and granulation tissue formation, while HAS-2 supports hyaluronic acid synthesis. Furthermore, it inhibits collagenase and elastase enzymes, mitigating collagen and elastin degradation. The extract also provides substantial anti-radical activity (up to 82% ± 2% inhibition of lipid peroxidation), supports skin renewal, and demonstrates anti-sebum, decongestant, and dermopurifying effects. Its flavonoid content offers additional protection against UV-induced damage via UV-absorbing, DNA-protective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory pathways.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 At a 5% concentration, this extract demonstrated a statistically significant upregulation of FGF-2 (1.74-fold) and HAS-2 (3.10-fold) gene expressions in human skin fibroblast cells in an in vitro study. This indicates potent anabolic effects on the skin's extracellular matrix, crucial for anti-aging and tissue repair.
  2. 02 Topical application of a 10% essential oil, expertly diluted in Rosa rubiginosa oil, has been observed to reduce local inflammation, edema, bruising, and hematomas in post-operative scars over a 2-3 month period.
  3. 03 The essential oil fraction (concentration not specified) exhibited powerful anti-radical activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation by 82% ± 2%, underscoring its significant antioxidant capacity relevant for cellular protection.
  4. 04 Formulations incorporating the essential oil at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% (with a preferred range of 0.1% to 2.1%) have demonstrated notable anti-wrinkle and moisturizing benefits, enhancing skin firmness and texture.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Conflicts

  • Hydrophobic terpenes in Helichrysum italicum essential oils may require solubilizers, such as DMSO or Tween 80, for successful integration into water-based formulations.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Moderate

Helichrysum Italicum Extract is currently on the 2024 Final Priority List for review by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. While it generally does not exhibit significant cytotoxicity or genotoxicity, an isolated case of an allergic reaction has been reported. As a cosmetic raw material, it is not subject to pre-market approval by the FDA.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Helichrysum Italicum Extract is a valuable multi-active ingredient that significantly supports skin regeneration, extracellular matrix health, and offers robust protective benefits against environmental stressors, ideal for comprehensive anti-aging and reparative formulations.

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