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HEDERA HELIX LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 84082-54-2 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Hedera Helix Leaf Extract is a multi-functional botanical ingredient known for its capacity to significantly enhance skin hydration, reduce inflammation in conditions like eczema, and regulate sebum production. It supports a robust skin barrier while offering antioxidant and astringent benefits.

Antioxidant Emollient Soothing Skin-Conditioning Agent Astringent Antimicrobial Tonic Hydrator Skin Barrier Support Sebum Regulator Anti-inflammatory Collagen Booster

Science

This extract operates through several pathways to improve skin health. It stimulates hyaluronic acid production and forms a breathable film on the skin surface, actively preventing transepidermal water loss while allowing skin respiration. Concurrently, it promotes the synthesis of ceramides and other intercellular lipids, reinforcing the skin's natural barrier. Anti-inflammatory actions involve suppressing inflammatory pathways and reducing histamine release, beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin. Its flavonoid content, including rutin and quercetin, provides potent antioxidant activity, scavenging free radicals and protecting against oxidative stress. For oily and acne-prone skin, it exhibits antimicrobial activity against *Propionibacterium acnes* and *Staphylococcus epidermidis*, regulates sebum through saponins inhibiting 5α-reductase, and utilizes astringent properties to tighten enlarged pores. Furthermore, hederagenin within the extract modulates sebum-related genes, enhances collagen synthesis, protects against UVB-induced damage, and stimulates microcirculation, delivering essential nutrients and aiding detoxification.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A controlled study demonstrated that a moisturizer containing Hedera Helix extract significantly increased skin hydration by forming a breathable film and promoting ceramide and intercellular lipid synthesis.
  2. 02 In a clinical study involving patients with mild to moderate eczema, a topical preparation with Hedera Helix extract significantly reduced erythema, scaling, and itching through the suppression of inflammatory pathways and reduction of histamine release.
  3. 03 A clinical evaluation indicated that application of a toner formulated with Hedera Helix extract significantly reduced sebum production and contributed to tightening enlarged pores.
  4. 04 Regular use of Hedera Helix extract improved skin elasticity and smoothness in dry skin types, effectively reducing flakiness and rough patches.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 7.2
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is highly soluble in water and insoluble in oil. Its optimal pH range for stability is broad, with reported ranges including 3.5-7.2. Extraction processes commonly utilize solvents such as water, alcohol, or glycerin.


Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Moderate

Hedera Helix Extract is generally considered safe in cosmetic formulations when properly diluted. However, it contains saponins, which can cause irritation or allergic reactions in certain individuals, especially at higher concentrations. Patch testing is recommended for those with sensitive skin or known plant allergies. While authorized by the European Medicines Agency for medicinal use, no specific FDA status or clear maximum cosmetic use concentration from CIR or SCCS is available in the provided data.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

Hedera Helix Leaf Extract is a valuable multi-active ingredient that effectively targets hydration, barrier function, inflammation, and sebum regulation across diverse skin types.


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