Science
Mechanism of Action
This synthetic crosspolymer functions by forming a fine, film-like network on the skin's surface, creating a soft-focus effect that optically blurs the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Its polymeric structure also modifies the tactile properties of formulations, imparting a creamy, elegant texture. As an anticaking agent, it prevents agglomeration in powdered products, ensuring smooth application. Its polypropylene glycol (PPG) component further contributes to formulation stability and can serve as a solubilizer or solvent.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a powder-form ingredient, HDI/PPG/Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer was initially noted for 'insufficient data for chronic respiratory' concerns by the CIR Expert Panel. However, subsequent review determined its large molecular weight (>10,000 Da) limits skin penetration, and residual HDI monomer levels in topical formulations up to 2.4% were below detection limits (0.4 ppm). While topical application is considered safe, careful handling during manufacturing to minimize airborne exposure is a general best practice for powdered ingredients.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
No specific optimal pH range for stability has been identified. This ingredient is typically incorporated as a powder and is considered dispersible rather than soluble in common cosmetic solvents like water or oil.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel initially deemed data 'insufficient' for chronic respiratory concerns regarding HDI polymers, including this crosspolymer. However, for topical applications, its molecular weight exceeding 10,000 Da suggests negligible skin penetration. Furthermore, formulations containing up to 2.4% of this ingredient exhibited residual HDI monomer levels below detection (0.4 ppm). Consequently, the CIR Science and Support Committee extended a 'safe as used' conclusion for topical applications based on these mitigating factors.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
HDI/PPG/Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer is a valuable cosmetic ingredient for enhancing texture, preventing caking, and providing a subtle soft-focus effect with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity, considered safe for topical use up to 2.4%.
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