Science
Mechanism of Action
This crosslinked polymer operates primarily through its absorbent and film-forming capabilities. As an absorbent, it is designed to sequester excess water and oil, potentially contributing to a mattified skin appearance. Its film-forming property allows it to create a thin, continuous layer on the skin, which can improve product wear, provide a smooth feel, and potentially support ingredient delivery. Additionally, it functions as a plasticiser and a non-surfactant dispersing agent within formulations.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Conflicts
- Formulators must adhere to good manufacturing practices (GMPs) to rigorously minimize residual hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) monomer content to non-toxic levels.
- GMPs are essential to ensure that low molecular weight polymers (below 1000 Da) are minimized within the final product.
- If any component moieties are plant-derived, strict GMPs must be employed to limit heavy metal impurities.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel, in its 2016 review, deemed data insufficient to conclude the safety of HDI/PEI-45/SMDI Crosspolymer under intended conditions of use, noting its limited reported use at the time. While the HDI monomer is a known occupational hazard (respiratory issues, dermatitis), the Panel stipulated that proper Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) should prevent toxicologically significant levels of residual monomer in cosmetic products. Concerns were also raised regarding potential heavy metal impurities in plant-derived components and the need to minimize low molecular weight polymers (<1000 Da). Key data gaps identified include molecular weight, formulation solubility, dermal absorption, and if absorbed, systemic toxicity data.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While offering potential benefits as an absorbent and film-former, the safety of HDI/PEI-45/SMDI Crosspolymer is currently undetermined by the CIR Expert Panel due to insufficient data, necessitating further research and stringent adherence to good manufacturing practices for its use.
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References
Sources