Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through key active compounds such as glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin. Glabridin is instrumental in brightening, directly inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme crucial for melanin synthesis, which visibly reduces dark spots. Liquiritin further aids in achieving an even skin tone by facilitating melanin dispersion. Its anti-inflammatory action, primarily via glycyrrhizin, mitigates redness, burning sensations, and itching by modulating SRC-mediated pathways and reducing pro-inflammatory mediators like IL-1β, TNF-α, and COX-2. Additionally, a rich complex of flavonoids and saponins provides robust antioxidant defense, shielding skin cells from oxidative damage and environmental aggressors.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Clinical use in leave-on cosmetic products has demonstrated efficacy for skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant benefits, with effective concentrations generally ranging from 0.1% to 1%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While effective concentrations for various skin benefits typically start from 0.1% and extend up to 1%, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that the ingredient is safe as used up to 0.4% in leave-on products. Therefore, concentrations below 0.1% may indicate cosmetic dusting, and concentrations exceeding 0.4% in leave-on formulations would require additional safety assessment for optimal precision and adherence to established guidelines.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Formulation stability considerations are noted, with studies conducted under varying temperature conditions and sunlight exposure, indicating careful formulation to maintain product integrity.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract safe for cosmetic use up to 0.4% in leave-on products. Its key components, liquiritin and glycyrrhizin, are classified as 'non-irritating' and predicted 'inactive' in skin sensitization, suggesting a minimal risk of allergic or irritant reactions. The FDA's GRAS designation for licorice (including other Glycyrrhiza species) as a direct food substance further supports its systemic safety.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract is a valuable, well-tolerated ingredient offering significant benefits across skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant protection for a wide range of skin types.
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