Science
Mechanism of Action
This potent extract functions through multiple biological pathways to optimize skin health. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-sensitizing actions are primarily mediated by Licochalcone A, which demonstrably reduces pro-inflammatory markers and suppresses protein denaturation. For skin brightening and anti-hyperpigmentation, the key flavonoid Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme essential for melanin production, thereby aiding in the reduction of dark spots and promotion of an even skin tone. The extract also confers significant antioxidant protection by neutralizing free radicals, with activity resembling superoxide dismutase. Furthermore, Licochalcone A contributes to managing oily and acne-prone skin by inhibiting the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme, which is implicated in sebum production, and by exhibiting antilipase and antimicrobial effects. Additional benefits include anti-aging and photoprotective activities, with some constituents demonstrating elastase inhibitory properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An in vitro study observed that Glabridin, a significant component found in licorice roots, inhibited tyrosinase activity in cultured B16 murine melanoma cells at concentrations between 0.1 to 1.0 µg/mL. This suggests a direct anti-melanogenesis effect without altering DNA synthesis.
- 02 A clinical study evaluated a tonic containing Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, alongside urea, lactate, and polidocanol, demonstrating beneficial effects in treating dry, itchy, and subclinically inflamed scalp conditions.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Extracts containing Licochalcone A are freely soluble in water, making the ingredient readily incorporable into aqueous phases of formulations. While a specific optimal pH range for Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is not definitively established, it is commonly integrated into water-based products like creams and serums, often within the internal aqueous phase of water/oil emulsions. A related ingredient, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, has a reported stable pH range of 3.5-5.5.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that all licorice-derived ingredients, including Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, are safe for use in cosmetics. The panel determined they are neither dermal irritants nor sensitizers, and showed no mutagenic potential. Dermal penetration of licorice compounds is considered low, with cosmetic exposure being significantly less than the oral intake from licorice candy, which in very large amounts could potentially affect blood pressure. No specific SCCS opinion was identified for this ingredient.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract is a valuable, multi-beneficial ingredient, effectively addressing concerns from inflammation and hyperpigmentation to oxidative stress, with a well-established safety profile for broad skin compatibility.
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