Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient exerts its effects through several key pathways. Its depigmenting capabilities are largely due to glabridin, which effectively inhibits melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. Isoliquiritigenin (ISL) further reduces melanogenesis by degrading microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and activating the ERK signaling pathway. Potent anti-inflammatory and soothing actions come from compounds like glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhizin, and licochalcone A, which diminish redness and irritation. Flavonoids and glabridin contribute antioxidant protection against free radical damage. Additionally, licochalcone assists in regulating sebum production, while glycyrrhizic acid provides hydration, collectively improving skin health and appearance.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence10%
Key findings
- 01 A 10% licorice extract cream applied twice daily for four weeks led to significant improvements in skin brightness and clarity, demonstrating superior efficacy compared to 20% and 40% concentrations for skin lightening.
- 02 Topical application of 0.5% glabridin, a key active compound from licorice, was shown to effectively inhibit UVB-induced pigmentation in guinea pigs.
- 03 In vitro studies on B16F10 melanoma cells revealed a concentration-dependent reduction in melanin content when treated with heat-treated licorice extract at 25, 50, and 100 μg/mL.
- 04 A formulation containing licorice root, along with gentian root and willow bark extract, demonstrated comparable effectiveness to a 1% hydrocortisone cream in alleviating eczema symptoms.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Clinical data indicates that a 10% concentration of licorice extract is highly effective for skin brightening, even outperforming higher concentrations. This suggests the ingredient's efficacy is well-established at accessible percentages, making it unlikely to be 'dusted' at sub-efficacious levels.
The Formula
Formulation
Synergies
- Other anti-inflammatory ingredients (e.g., gentian root, willow bark extract for eczema management)
- Other skin brightening agents (to complement tyrosinase inhibition pathways)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel confirmed the safety of Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root for cosmetic use, noting no dermal irritation, sensitization, or mutagenic effects. Low dermal penetration further limits systemic exposure. The FDA also recognizes Licorice as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) for food use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root is a highly valuable ingredient due to its proven efficacy in skin brightening, potent anti-inflammatory effects, and broad compatibility across all skin types, making it a versatile asset in precision skincare formulations.
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