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Moumoujus

GLYCERYL GLYCYRRHETINATE.

Valuable CAS 108916-85-4 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate is a multifaceted active ingredient derived from licorice, renowned for its potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing capabilities. It effectively addresses skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity while contributing to a brighter, more even-toned complexion by mitigating hyperpigmentation and offering antibacterial protection.

Summary

Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Soothing Antibacterial Skin-brightening Anti-hyperpigmentation Skin barrier support

Science

Mechanism of Action

Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate acts via its active component, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, to modulate inflammatory pathways by inhibiting key enzymes such as cyclooxygenase and reducing prostaglandin E2 formation. This confers significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, safeguarding the skin against environmental stressors and supporting cellular health to prevent premature aging. It also exhibits antibacterial activity against common skin pathogens like Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes by disrupting their cell membranes. Furthermore, it inhibits tyrosinase activity, a crucial step in melanin synthesis, which helps diminish dark spots and hyperpigmentation, fostering a more luminous and uniform skin tone. By enhancing the skin's barrier function, it aids in moisture retention and protects against dullness and dryness.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–2%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 This concentration is considered optimal for Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, both structurally similar to Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, for their beneficial properties in skincare.
  2. 02 Formulations containing this concentration of Glycyrrhizic Acid, a precursor to Glycyrrhetinic Acid, demonstrated efficacy in reducing erythema, edema, and itching in a clinical trial for atopic dermatitis, indicating strong anti-inflammatory potential.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As an ester of glycyrrhetinic acid, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate exhibits enhanced oil solubility and skin compatibility, making it highly suitable for integration into oil-based formulations. While no specific optimal pH range for Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate stability has been identified, general glycerin stability can be improved at pH 4-5.5 or above 10.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, alongside other glycyrrhetinic acid salts and esters, as safe under current usage practices and concentrations. These compounds are minimally absorbed through the skin and are not considered irritants, sensitizers, phototoxic agents, or photosensitizers at typical usage levels. Due to its plant origin, the CIR advises limiting total PCB/pesticide contamination to no more than 40 ppm (with individual residues not exceeding 10 ppm) and toxic metal levels to below 3 mg/kg arsenic, 0.002% heavy metals, and 1 mg/kg lead. While a specific maximum concentration for Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate is not explicitly stated, related compounds like Glycyrrhetinic Acid are used safely up to 2%, and Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate up to 1%.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate is a valuable ingredient, offering broad-spectrum benefits from potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action to skin brightening and antibacterial properties, suitable for all skin types with a low sensitization risk.

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