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GLYCERYL DIHYDROXYSTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 78616-19-0 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate is a lipophilic diester of glycerin and hydroxystearic acid, serving as a dual-action ingredient. It functions primarily as a skin conditioning emollient that bolsters the skin barrier and simultaneously acts as an emulsifier to stabilize cosmetic formulations.

Emollient Emulsifying

Science

This ingredient enhances skin barrier function by supplying exogenous lipids that integrate into the stratum corneum, effectively filling microscopic gaps between corneocytes. This action significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to improved hydration, increased suppleness, and defense against irritating stimuli. The inherent glycerol component further contributes to stratum corneum hydration and mechanical strength. As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate reduces the interfacial tension between immiscible liquid phases, ensuring the stability and homogeneity of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate is not an ingredient typically associated with 'dusting' properties in cosmetic formulations, as it functions as an emollient and emulsifier rather than a particulate or film-forming polymer.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Characterized by high lipophilicity, Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate is optimally incorporated into oil-based formulations. General observations on related glyceryl monostearates suggest that pH fluctuations can influence the stability of alpha-gel phases in aqueous systems, a consideration for emulsion integrity.

Conflicts

  • Formulations must minimize the content of 1,2-diester isomers, as elevated levels have been associated with the potential to induce epidermal hyperplasia.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed glyceryl diesters, including Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate, safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations, provided the content of 1,2-diesters is sufficiently low to avoid epidermal hyperplasia. The 1,3-diester form is considered free of significant acute toxicity, irritation, sensitization, or photosensitization potential. While no specific maximum concentration for Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate in cosmetics was identified, general class restrictions regarding isomers apply.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate is a valuable ingredient, offering significant skin barrier enhancement and hydration benefits while efficiently stabilizing emulsions with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity, making it suitable for a broad range of skin types, particularly dry and sensitive.


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