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FICUS CARICA LEAF EXTRACT.

Questionable CAS 90028-74-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Ficus Carica Leaf Extract is a plant-derived ingredient known for its diverse biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties. It demonstrates potential in sebum regulation, skin brightening, and barrier support, yet raises significant concerns regarding its irritancy and photosensitizing effects.

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Moisturizer Sebum Regulator Skin Lightening Skin Barrier Support Exfoliant Antimicrobial Anti-aging

Science

This extract functions as a potent antioxidant by leveraging its rich composition of polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids, and anthocyanins to neutralize free radicals and protect cellular integrity. Its anti-inflammatory action is mediated through suppression of NF-κB activation and reduction in pro-inflammatory cytokine gene expression (e.g., IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α). Hydrating properties stem from its ability to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), restore the skin's hydrolipidic balance, and induce ceramide synthesis. Furthermore, it aids in sebum regulation, inhibits tyrosinase for improved skin tone, and provides mild exfoliation via the protease ficin. Antimicrobial attributes also contribute to its multifaceted action.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.002–0.006%
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

No information regarding dusting potential for this ingredient was found in the provided data.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

A hydrosoluble extract can be derived from Ficus carica liquid suspension culture from leaves. While an optimal pH range for Ficus Carica Leaf Extract specifically is not available, stability for Ficus Carica Fruit Extract is indicated within a pH range of 4.5-6.5.

Conflicts

  • Due to its psoralen content, this extract may significantly increase skin photosensitivity, making the rigorous use of broad-spectrum sunscreen imperative when included in formulations.

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk High

Ficus carica leaf, both fresh and in preparations, carries immunotoxicity concerns and is cited as a human skin irritant with strong evidence. It is associated with violations of government and industry restrictions, including the EU Cosmetics Directive. The leaves contain higher concentrations of psoralens, which can substantially increase photosensitivity. Individual sensitivities vary, therefore, patch testing is highly recommended for products containing this extract, particularly for those with sensitive skin or allergies to plants in the Moraceae family.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Questionable

Despite offering a range of compelling benefits from antioxidant protection to sebum regulation, the significant risks associated with high skin irritancy, immunotoxicity concerns, and increased photosensitivity render Ficus Carica Leaf Extract a questionable choice for precision skincare formulations, especially for sensitive skin.


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