Science
Mechanism of Action
The ingredient is a ferment filtrate extract created by the anaerobic digestion of chicken feathers using *Fervidobacterium islandicum* AW-1. This process employs the bacterium's keratinolytic proteases to break down feather keratin into low molecular weight (LMW) keratins and free amino acids. These LMW components are believed to provide skin conditioning and humectant properties, while also exerting anti-aging effects through the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), specifically MMP-1 and MMP-13, which are central to collagen and elastin breakdown in the skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Low molecular weight feather keratins significantly suppressed the expression of ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and Matrix Metalloproteinase-13 (MMP-13) in human dermal fibroblasts. Marginal inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and radical scavenging activities was also observed, indicating anti-skin aging properties.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The enzymatic process for feather degradation by *Fervidobacterium islandicum* AW-1 exhibits optimal activity at pH 9, with complete feather breakdown occurring at pH 7. This indicates that the resulting peptides and amino acids within the ferment filtrate are stable and effective within a pH range of 7.0 to 9.0.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) have not specifically evaluated FERVIDOBACTERIUM ISLANDICUM/CHICKEN FEATHER FERMENT FILTRATE EXTRACT. Paula's Choice notes this ingredient as 'Not rated' due to ongoing research and a current lack of comprehensive safety reviews.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient shows valuable potential for anti-aging through significant MMP inhibition and offers skin/hair conditioning benefits; however, comprehensive safety data from regulatory bodies remains to be established.
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