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Moumoujus

EVERNIA FURFURACEA LICHEN EXTRACT.

Avoid CAS 90028-67-4 / 68648-41-9 / 68917-40-8 / PERFUMING

Evernia Furfuracea Lichen Extract is characterized by its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties, with a historical use in addressing inflammatory skin concerns. However, its high allergenic potential necessitates strict regulatory controls and careful consideration for skin applications.

Summary

Fragrance ingredient Antioxidant Antimicrobial Immunomodulator

Science

Mechanism of Action

This lichen extract operates through multiple pathways, including free-radical scavenging, which provides antioxidant protection against environmental stressors. It also exhibits antimicrobial activity and modulates immune responses, potentially offering traditional benefits for inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.0000156–0.1%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro studies at concentrations between 0.005% and 0.1% (50 to 1000 µg/mL) demonstrated increased antioxidant activity, ranging from 2.11% to 86.94%.
  2. 02 Additional in vitro research showed protective effects against hydroxyl radicals and no significant cell death across concentrations from 0.0000156% to 0.01% (0.156 to 100 µg/ml).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.001%
Red flag below
0.001%

Due to its established allergenic potential, Evernia Furfuracea Lichen Extract is subject to strict labeling requirements in the EU. Concentrations exceeding 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products mandate declaration on the product label as an allergen, functioning as a critical red flag for consumer awareness.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Conflicts

  • Known to cause allergic contact dermatitis, especially in individuals co-sensitized to colophonium due to the presence of shared resin acids.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.001%
Sensitization risk High

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not assessed this ingredient. It is approved under Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation but with significant restrictions due to its high allergenic potential. It features on the EU 26 list of fragrance allergens, requiring declaration above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products. Patch testing has shown positive reactions in 6.37% of individuals to 1% tree moss absolute. While not suspected to be toxic to organ systems or the environment, its use is strictly governed by IFRA limits, for example, up to 0.10% for face/body products.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, the high allergenic potential and stringent regulatory restrictions of Evernia Furfuracea Lichen Extract make its inclusion in precision skincare formulations highly questionable, particularly for leave-on products.

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