Science
Mechanism of Action
This ferment filtrate acts through a multifaceted approach: it significantly inhibits tyrosinase activity and the synthesis of melanin within melanocytes, while also modulating gene expression involved in melanogenesis, resulting in a skin depigmenting effect. Concurrently, it stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, key structural proteins, and restricts their enzymatic degradation by collagenase and elastase. It further prevents collagen glycation, contributing to improved skin elasticity, resistance, and tensile strength, thereby ameliorating wrinkles and sagging. The extract also demonstrates efficacy in reducing vascular permeability, a factor in edema and under-eye puffiness, and directly diminishes concentrations of bilirubin and melanin, addressing dark eye circles and various hyperpigmented conditions like age spots.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract, derived from a fermentation process typically conducted at pH 5-9 (often around 7.5), contains intracellular compounds. It can be formulated by adsorption onto solid organic polymers or mineral supports such as talc, bentonite, silica, starch, or maltodextrin.
Safety
Safety Profile
No specific safety evaluations by regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA are available for this ingredient. Paula's Choice has indicated it as 'Not rated', signifying the necessity for thorough research and in-depth analysis regarding its safety profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While exhibiting a broad range of potential benefits for hyperpigmentation and aging skin, the current lack of specific clinical efficacy and comprehensive safety data warrants a cautious approach in formulation.
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References
Sources