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EPILOBIUM FLEISCHERI EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 849775-73-1 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is a multi-functional botanical ingredient recognized for its potent sebum-regulating and microbiome-balancing properties, effectively targeting acne and oily skin concerns. Rich in polyphenols, it also offers significant soothing, antioxidant, and anti-aging benefits through senolytic activity.

Summary

Skin conditioning Sebum regulation Anti-acne Soothing Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Microbiome balancing Anti-aging Senolytic

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through several key pathways. Its primary active compound, oenothein B, is a potent inhibitor of 5α-reductase, an enzyme crucial for sebum production, thereby diminishing skin oiliness and reducing acne-related issues. Additionally, it rebalances the skin microbiome by promoting beneficial bacteria like Staphylococcus hominis and epidermidis. Its comprehensive benefits are further supported by a rich profile of soothing and antioxidant polyphenols, along with documented senolytic activity that aids in combating signs of skin aging by selectively removing senescent cells.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–3%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 3% concentration significantly decreased non-inflammatory lesions (whiteheads and blackheads) by 47% after 28 days of twice-daily application in a clinical study of 23 Caucasian females.
  2. 02 Clinical trials at 3% demonstrated a 45% reduction in non-inflammatory lesions and a 65% reduction in porphyrins, a known acne risk factor, over 4 weeks compared to placebo.
  3. 03 Topical application of 3% extract resulted in a 17% overall reduction in sebum production across facial areas, with pronounced effects on the forehead and cheeks, after 4 weeks.
  4. 04 In an in vivo study, a 3% concentration led to a 56% decrease in sebum production over 2 months by inhibiting 5-α-reductase activity.
  5. 05 A 3% concentration positively modulated facial microbiota, increasing beneficial bacteria such as Staphylococcus hominis, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Micrococcus yunnanensis.
  6. 06 Research indicates senolytic activity on human dermal fibroblasts, suggesting its utility in addressing signs of skin aging.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Effective clinical concentrations of 3% fall within the preferred use range of 0.1-3% and well below the maximum recommended concentration of 10%, indicating it is typically used at efficacious levels rather than for cosmetic "dusting."

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

This water and alcohol-soluble extract maintains optimal stability and efficacy within a pH range of 4 to 7.5, with clinical formulations often set at pH 5.5. To preserve its integrity, products containing the extract should be stored in airtight containers, shielded from light, moisture, and heat.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Moderate

While generally regarded as safe for topical application, the ingredient has not been formally reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) or other major regulatory bodies like SCCS or FDA. Sensitive individuals may experience mild allergic reactions or skin irritation. It is typically incorporated into formulations at concentrations between 0.1% and 3%, though up to 10% is acceptable.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is a valuable, evidence-backed ingredient for addressing multiple skin concerns, particularly effective in sebum control, acne reduction, and supporting overall skin health through its soothing, microbiome-balancing, and anti-aging properties.

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