Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a powerful antioxidant by leveraging its rich content of polyphenols, flavonoids, L-ascorbic acid, and fatty acids, which actively neutralize free radicals and mitigate oxidative stress. Its anti-inflammatory prowess derives from tannins and flavonoids that visibly reduce redness and soothe irritated skin, alongside Oenothein B, which inhibits both COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. For acne-prone skin, Oenothein B also regulates sebum production by inhibiting 5-α-reductase, while the extract's antibacterial properties target *Propionibacterium acnes* and other harmful bacteria. In anti-aging applications, it combats premature signs of aging through its antioxidant activity, significantly inhibits collagenase and elastase enzymes, and promotes increased cell proliferation. Additionally, it offers moisturizing, astringent (pore-minimizing), and wound-healing benefits by stimulating fibroblast and keratinocyte growth and angiogenesis, and provides a photoprotective effect.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant inhibition of elastase activity by 49.1% and collagenase activity by 59.8% at 1000 µg/mL. An aqueous extract also inhibited elastase by 82%.
- 02 Showed robust anti-inflammatory action by inhibiting lipoxygenase activity by 68.2% at 1000 µg/mL and 70.5% at 500 µg/mL.
- 03 Exhibited high antioxidant activity, with 84-86% free radical scavenging (DPPH method) at 500 µg/mL.
- 04 Increased the viability of fibroblasts (BJ) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) by 135%-145% at 1000 µg/mL, indicating strong regenerative potential.
- 05 A 3% concentration provided a significant photoprotective effect following repeated application.
- 06 A 5% concentration showed no skin irritancy in a patch test.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Epilobium Angustifolium Leaf Extract is effective at relatively low concentrations, typically ranging from 0.1% for concentrated powder forms to 3% for liquid solutions. This potent efficacy at minimal levels suggests its use as an active ingredient rather than as an inactive filler, making it unlikely to be 'dusted'.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is commonly supplied in a water-based solution and contributes to overall formulation stability by providing protection against oxidative damage, chemical degradation, light, and moisture. It is readily incorporated into emulsions and is well-suited for hydrogel applications. Short-term thermal stability (30 minutes at 50 °C) has been observed at a pH of 6.6.
Safety
Safety Profile
The ingredient is considered safe for cosmetic use according to the EU Cosmetics Regulation (CosIng) without any specific provisions. A patch test conducted at a 5% concentration revealed no skin irritancy, indicating a low sensitization potential. Dermal toxicity data, however, has not been specifically determined.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Epilobium Angustifolium Leaf Extract is a highly valuable, well-tolerated botanical ingredient offering extensive benefits including potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and sebum-regulating effects, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types and concerns.
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References
Sources