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EMPETRUM NIGRUM LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / ANTIMICROBIAL, SKIN CONDITIONING

Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract, derived from crowberry, is a multifaceted skincare ingredient known for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It significantly enhances skin barrier function, providing intense hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss. This extract also offers photoprotection, helping to mitigate UV-induced cellular damage.

Antioxidant Skin Barrier Support Hydration Anti-inflammatory Photoprotection Gentle Exfoliation Cell Regeneration

Science

This potent extract functions as a robust antioxidant, safeguarding skin cells from oxidative stress by neutralizing damaging free radicals, attributed to its rich content of vitamins, minerals, flavonoids, polyphenols, and anthocyanins. It actively supports and strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating key barrier genes and enhancing AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, which leads to improved skin restructuring and increased corneocyte cohesion. Consequently, this action intensely hydrates the skin and significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Furthermore, Empetrum nigrum exhibits strong anti-inflammatory effects through COX2 inhibition and suppression of pro-inflammatory mediators, effectively calming irritation and reducing redness. It also offers photoprotection by absorbing UVB radiation and scavenging UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), thereby preventing cellular damage. The presence of natural acids contributes to gentle exfoliation, promoting cellular regeneration and a smoother skin texture.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

High concentrations of polyphenols and anthocyanins indicate potential sensitivity to oxidation, light, and heat, necessitating careful formulation and storage. The presence of metal ions (e.g., Fe3+, Al3+) can stabilize anthocyanins but may alter color intensity, suggesting that metal chelators could be beneficial for maintaining product aesthetics and stability.

Synergies

  • Betula alba bark extract (for enhanced skin barrier benefits)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not conducted a specific review of Empetrum nigrum leaf extract. However, related extracts, such as Empetrum Nigrum (Crowberry) Fruit Extract, are listed by SkinSAFE as 'Irritant Free', suggesting a generally low irritancy potential for this plant's derivatives.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract is a valuable ingredient, delivering comprehensive benefits including robust antioxidant protection, significant skin barrier enhancement, intense hydration, and anti-inflammatory action, suitable for all skin types.


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