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Moumoujus

EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT JUICE.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING

EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT JUICE, derived from crowberry, is a multifaceted skincare ingredient recognized for its robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It actively supports skin barrier function, enhances hydration, and contributes to overall skin restructuring and firming, promoting a revitalized and supple complexion across all skin types.

Summary

antioxidant soothing astringent skin barrier support hydrating anti-inflammatory skin firming gentle exfoliation

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a potent antioxidant due to its high concentration of polyphenolic compounds, vitamins, minerals, and flavonoids, which safeguard cell membranes and DNA from free radical damage and oxidative stress. It restores the activity of crucial cellular antioxidant enzymes, including superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase, and heme oxygenase-1, thereby suppressing hydrogen peroxide and UVB-induced cellular damage. Acting as an anti-inflammatory agent, it moderates the secretion of pro-inflammatory mediators. For skin firming, it helps preserve collagen and elastin fibers, enhancing skin elasticity and suppleness. It also improves microcirculation by increasing vascular elasticity. The natural acids present offer gentle exfoliation, encouraging cell regeneration, while its ability to upregulate barrier genes and inhibit enzymes like KLK5 and hyaluronidase significantly strengthens the skin's natural protective barrier. Additionally, it provides intense hydration and revitalization, with astringent properties that help prevent skin dryness.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.25–0.5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In a split-face clinical study, a combined extract containing 0.25% EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT JUICE and 0.05% Betula alba bark extract demonstrated significantly superior skin restructuring, corneocyte cohesion, skin hydration, and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to a placebo. This combination also exhibited superior hydration and TEWL benefits compared to 3% niacinamide.
  2. 02 Quantitative PCR analysis (in vitro) showed that a 0.5% concentration of EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT JUICE, when used individually, upregulated genes critical for skin barrier function.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The active anthocyanins in untreated crowberry juice exhibit temperature-dependent stability, with half-lives of approximately 2.2 weeks at 21°C, 7.3 weeks at 9°C, and 12.3 weeks at 4°C. Anthocyanin stability can be significantly improved (3 to 4 times) by reducing oxygen levels by 90%. The presence of Fe3+ and Al3+ ions may enhance anthocyanin stability but could diminish the juice's color shade. The natural pH of the juice typically ranges from 3.7 to 8.1.

Synergies

  • Betula alba bark extract (enhances skin restructuring, hydration, and barrier function)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin or a history of allergies are advised to perform a sensitivity test. Its cosmetic use is monitored and deemed safe by the European Union and other regulatory authorities when utilized according to approved guidelines.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT JUICE is a valuable multi-functional ingredient that significantly boosts skin barrier integrity, hydration, and antioxidant defenses, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types with low irritancy and comedogenicity.

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