Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a potent antioxidant, primarily due to its rich content of polyphenolic compounds, anthocyanins, flavonoids, vitamins, and minerals, which protect cell membranes and DNA from free radicals and oxidative stress. It demonstrates anti-inflammatory activity through mechanisms such as COX2 inhibition and suppression of nitric oxide release. On the skin, it fortifies the barrier function by significantly upregulating aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and occludin (OCLN) proteins and enhancing corneocyte cohesion. The extract also provides protection against UVB radiation and scavenges UVB-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS). Additionally, it functions as a skin firming agent by inhibiting Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1) and reducing elastase enzyme activity, thereby preserving collagen and elastin fibers for improved skin elasticity and suppleness, and it can also enhance vascular elasticity and microcirculation within the skin. The natural acids present in the extract gently exfoliate the skin, assisting in the removal of dead cells and promoting cell regeneration, while also providing intense hydration and revitalization.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In a split-face clinical study, a combination of Empetrum nigrum and Betula alba extracts demonstrated significantly better skin restructuring and corneocyte cohesion compared to a placebo. In another split-face clinical study, this combination also showed significant improvements in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) relative to 3% niacinamide, indicating robust benefits for skin barrier health at a potentially lower concentration.
- 02 Preliminary in-house investigations suggest potential anti-aging benefits, though these require further clinical confirmation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The stability of its key active components, anthocyanins, is influenced by factors such as pH, light exposure, solvent systems, metal ions (e.g., Fe3+ and Al3+ can enhance stability but may reduce the juice's color shade), and the presence of oxygen. Removing oxygen can generally enhance stability. The half-life for total anthocyanins in crowberry juice has been reported as approximately 2.2 weeks at 21 °C, extending to 7.3 weeks at 9 °C, and 12.3 weeks at 4 °C. Despite these considerations, formulating with Empetrum nigrum extracts is generally not associated with significant stability challenges.
Synergies
- Betula Alba Extract (demonstrated synergy in clinical studies for skin restructuring, corneocyte cohesion, hydration, and TEWL improvement)
Safety
Safety Profile
Empetrum Nigrum fruit juice is generally considered safe when used according to approved regulatory guidelines. However, a sensitivity test is recommended before extensive use as some individuals may experience mild skin irritation or allergic reactions.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
EMPETRUM NIGRUM FRUIT EXTRACT is a valuable ingredient, clinically shown to support skin barrier function, enhance hydration, and offer significant antioxidant and anti-aging benefits.
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References
Sources