Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract primarily functions by upregulating critical skin barrier genes, specifically AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, leading to a reinforced epidermal barrier. It also maintains barrier integrity by inhibiting enzymes such as KLK5 and hyaluronidase. Beyond barrier support, Empetrum Nigrum demonstrates potent antioxidant activity through DPPH inhibition and offers anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting COX2. It further protects the skin by absorbing UVB radiation and neutralizing reactive oxygen species. The natural acids within the fruit provide gentle exfoliation, encouraging cell renewal and improving skin texture. Additionally, it contributes to skin hydration, evens tone, mitigates inflammation, and supports dermal structure by preventing fiber degradation and enhancing microcirculation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In studies, a 0.5% concentration of the extract significantly enhanced skin barrier strength by upregulating key genes (AQP3 and OCLN protein expression). This concentration also demonstrated potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, alongside inhibiting barrier-degrading enzymes like KLK5 and hyaluronidase.
- 02 When combined at 0.25% with 0.05% Betula alba extract, it exhibited superior skin restructuring, improved corneocyte cohesion, increased hydration, and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), outperforming 3% niacinamide.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data available suggests this ingredient is commonly dusted or has known dusting thresholds.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While stable when co-formulated with Betula alba extract, some variations of Empetrum nigrum extracts have presented solubility challenges during initial screening phases.
Synergies
- Betula alba extract
Safety
Safety Profile
SkinSAFE has categorized this ingredient as 'Irritant Free' and 'Dye Free', and The Good Scents Company reports no specific safety references. While not directly relevant to cosmetic use, animal studies of a whole plant extract indicated low toxicity even at high oral dosages (up to 1500 mg/kg over 6 months) for non-cosmetic applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Empetrum Nigrum Flower/Fruit/Leaf Extract is a valuable botanical active, offering robust skin barrier reinforcement, potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, and gentle exfoliation across all skin types.
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