Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a potent antioxidant by directly scavenging free radicals such as DPPH and ABTS, and by bolstering the skin's endogenous antioxidant system. This action mitigates oxidative stress and offers protection against photoaging by reducing superoxide anion production and preventing cellular damage. Its anti-inflammatory efficacy is demonstrated through the inhibition of nitric oxide (NO) production and a reduction in the expression of various pro-inflammatory cytokines, including IL-6, IL-8, MIF, and eotaxins. For skin brightening, the extract precisely inhibits tyrosinase activity and suppresses melanogenesis by down-regulating key melanin-producing proteins and inhibiting the phosphorylation of CREB and ERK. Furthermore, it supports collagen integrity by increasing metalloproteinases like TIMP-1 and MMP-9 under oxidative stress, promotes fibroblast proliferation, and exhibits antimicrobial activity against common skin bacteria like Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Escherichia coli.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.005%
Key findings
- 01 At 0.05%, the extract demonstrated a 39.6% inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells, indicating potent anti-inflammatory action.
- 02 A concentration of 0.005% was identified as most effective for inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16-F10 melanoma cells, also suppressing CREB and ERK phosphorylation without cytotoxicity within the 0.00125%-0.005% range.
- 03 Antioxidant properties were observed with an IC50 value of 0.007627% for DPPH radical inhibition, and a 0.1% concentration showed robust scavenging capacities of 88.30% for ABTS and 85.24% for DPPH radicals.
- 04 A methanol-acetone fruit extract enhanced human fibroblast proliferation, reduced H2O2-induced cell death, lowered reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, and decreased the expression of multiple pro-inflammatory cytokines.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While the plant thrives in soil pH 5.5–9.5 and the fruit extract itself has an approximate pH of 4.5, no specific optimal pH range for the extract's stability in cosmetic formulations has been identified. Anthocyanins, known components, exhibit maximum absorbance and color stability around pH 1.0 and 4.5.
Safety
Safety Profile
Elaeagnus Umbellata Branch Extract has not been reviewed by major regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA. In vitro studies indicate non-cytotoxicity up to 0.005% in B16-F10 melanoma cells, which is the most effective concentration for anti-melanogenesis. However, a methanol extract did show cytotoxic effects on Vero cells at concentrations of 0.01% and higher, suggesting concentration-dependent cellular responses.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Elaeagnus Umbellata Branch Extract is a valuable ingredient, demonstrating diverse benefits across antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, anti-aging, and antimicrobial pathways in in-vitro studies, suitable for various skin types.
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References
Sources