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Moumoujus

DOLICHOS BIFLORUS CALLUS EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN PROTECTING

Dolichos Biflorus Callus Extract is a biotechnologically derived botanical active prized for its multifaceted contributions to skin health. It demonstrates robust anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and protective properties, particularly in mitigating UV-induced cellular damage. This ingredient actively supports skin firmness through enhanced collagen synthesis and promotes overall skin regeneration.

Summary

Skin protecting Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Collagen boosting UV damage repair Skin regeneration

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through several precise pathways to enhance skin vitality and resilience. It functions as a UV-protective factor by inhibiting the formation of UV-induced erythema and significantly reducing associated redness. At a cellular level, it counteracts the UV-induced reduction of proteasome activity, thereby preserving essential cellular repair and degradation functionalities. Furthermore, the extract significantly decreases the expression of pro-inflammatory interleukins (IL-1β by 35%, IL-6 by 57%, IL-8 by 47%) in keratinocytes following UV exposure, indicating potent anti-inflammatory action. It also stimulates the production of collagens, specifically Type I and V, which strengthens the skin's extracellular matrix network, leading to improved firmness and an enhanced regenerative process.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.002–0.01%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In an in vivo study (n=10), two weeks of application inhibited UV-induced erythema by 23.94% compared to untreated areas and by 12.79% compared to placebo-treated areas.
  2. 02 In vitro studies showed complete elimination of the reduction in proteasome activity caused by both UVA and UVB irradiation.
  3. 03 In vitro analysis revealed a reduction in inflammatory cytokine expression in UV-treated keratinocytes: IL-1β by 35%, IL-6 by 57%, and IL-8 by 47%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Based on available research, there is no indication that Dolichos Biflorus Callus Extract is commonly 'dusted' in formulations, referring to inclusion at ineffective concentrations solely for marketing.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6 – 8.5
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal stability is observed within a pH range of 6.0 to 8.5, with a pH of approximately 7.5 being most preferred. The extract is typically prepared using alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extraction methods, which contribute to its stability.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Unknown

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not yet assessed Dolichos Biflorus Callus Extract. While related Dolichos Biflorus seed extract showed no mortality or toxic reactions in oral animal studies up to 3000 mg/kg BW, this is not a direct assessment of topical cosmetic safety for the callus extract. INCI Beauty reports 'No penalty' across all categories, suggesting no widely known negative flags from their perspective, but comprehensive toxicology for topical use is currently awaiting formal review.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Dolichos Biflorus Callus Extract is a valuable active ingredient, demonstrating significant in vivo UV protection, alongside potent in vitro anti-inflammatory and collagen-boosting effects, despite pending formal safety review by regulatory bodies.

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